Describing grape varieties: red grapes
March 20, 2012
Right, just a bit of fun this week. If there’s one good way of trying to guess what the wine in a random bottle will taste like, it’s by knowing which grape variety (or varieties) it was made from. Sometimes, most commonly in New World countries, it states it on the label. With many of the famous names from the Old World, it will just have the name of the Protected Designation of Origin (PDO)…
When I hear ‘cult wine’ I reach for my revolver
March 13, 2012
I was walking around the recent Annual California Wine Tasting in London the other day and one particular bottle caught my eye. I had heard about it before, and had seen it in a couple of high-end wine shops over the years, but never drunk any. I also recalled seeing some high scores from critics in magazines. I walked over and asked if I could taste it. The lady behind the table kindly poured me…
The most widely planted grape in Japan: Koshu
February 28, 2012
It’s not every day I have the excuse to start a blog post with a haiku, but I do today, so here goes: Koshu It’s quite expensive, But displays a unique style; Not unlike sake. Andrew Jefford would be proud… In Japan they grow Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and a handful of other lesser known grapes such as Muscat Bailey A, but the most widely…
Dudley & de Fleury Wines: “it’s easy to fall in love with Fanny”
February 23, 2012
It has clearly been a hectic few months for the two Richards, Dudley and de Fleury. Operating for just over a year, they are still in the process of putting together their full range. Nonetheless, there were 75 wines on show at their recent tasting from their developing list. They make an interesting double act, and their contrasting styles will no doubt be a strength for their business. Dudley…
Austrian reds: don’t laugh
February 16, 2012
Supplier: “Hello Matt, what would you like to taste?” Me: “The St Laurent – I’m just tasting St Laurents at the moment.” Supplier: (shoots another writer an incredulous look) “Just St Laurents? That’s very…er… specific of you.” Cue much laughter from the two of them. OK I admit it. It’s a bit niche. I was probably the only person just tasting indigenous red varieties at last week’s annual…
The Art of Spitting
January 31, 2012
If you go to a lot of wine tastings, it’s easy to forget just how strange the whole spitting thing is. The act of spitting is universally considered socially unacceptable in crowded places, but he we are, all standing in a busy room, spitting into buckets. Tall, shapely, metal buckets, but buckets nonetheless. It’s particularly incongruous at the more upmarket tastings, where gentleman in suits…
Oregon: Stunning Pinot Noir, suspect Pinot Gris
January 25, 2012
The most expensive bottle of wine I ever bought was a Pinot Noir. A Burgundy from a great vineyard, by a well-known producer, in an exceptional year. I opened it expecting fireworks; instead it pissed on my bonfire. It barely tasted of anything. I returned to it every day like a jilted lover, hoping it would eventually come to its senses. Still nothing. Gutted. But it won’t stop me buying this…
Mr Lawrence’s: a quietly inspiring wine merchant in southeast London
January 18, 2012
Sitting down, I ask Mr Lawrence to describe what Brockley was like when he first opened his wine shop and bar. He knows what I’m getting at. Leaning in, he smiles and quietly states “we have very little trouble here”. Looking up at him, it’s not hard to see why – you wouldn’t want to challenge him to an arm wrestle. Nonetheless, you still need to be buzzed in through the inner metal gate to…
En primeur: How to taste unfinished wines
January 10, 2012
As months go, we all know that January is a tedious windbag. But what it does have going for it is Burgundy. Every year, various independent wine merchants organise for Burgundy producers to come to London and show off their latest wines; this time round it is the 2010 vintage. Most reports are indicating that it was a very good growing season, and some brilliant wines have been made. So should…
New Cru: the cream of the Languedoc
December 21, 2011
Powerful words, ‘Grand Cru’. Referring to a wine or a vineyard of the highest quality, this tiny phrase bestows the stamp of greatness. In all the vineyards of Burgundy, one of the most outstanding wine regions of all, there are only 34 individual sites that have been officially certified Grand Cru. It is the individual plot, the terroir, that is given this distinction; over the years it has…