Digging Graves
A quick intro to Graves...
Every year, the two titans of Bordeaux – the Left Bank and Right Bank – lock swords in a battle for supremacy. Observing from the sidelines to the south is Graves, the gritty third wine region of Bordeaux, nonchalantly whittling a stick with its Swiss army knife. A less glamorous choice of blade for sure; but far more versatile.
Bordeaux is world-renowned for its reds. Fighting on this front, Graves would win many battles but it would lose the war. It has a secret weapon, however, in its white wines. Its dry whites are the best in Bordeaux, and can be more than a match for the best reds in cooler years. Its sweet whites, Sauternes and Barsac, are also stunningly good.
The Graves region stretches southeast from the city of Bordeaux alongside the Garonne River. Its reds stick to the Bordeaux blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc, but give leaner, earthier examples with notes of tobacco and charcoal. The whites are blends of Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon and Muscadelle. Oak ageing provides a spicy tang and added muscle, giving them a more powerful style compared to rival Sauvignons from the Loire.
Many of the best Graves reds and whites come from the sub-region of Pessac-Léognan. It begins in the suburbs of Bordeaux, but stretches south among fields and pine forests. It’s home to First Growth Château Haut-Brion, and its sister estate La Mission Haut-Brion. Year after year they duel for the title of Graves ‘Wine of the Vintage’. Big names like these come with a three-figure price tag, but thanks to its relatively low profile, Graves can also be a hunting ground for bargains. Value is a relative term in Bordeaux, but the three below all excel in their class.
Château des Gravières ‘Cuvée Prestige’ 2009 (WineTrust100, £13.00)
Juicy, ripe black berry fruits and a dry finish – 2009 was a great year in Bordeaux. Delivers a lot of pleasure for the price.
Clos Floridène Blanc 2011 (The Wine Society, £18.00)
From the estate of Professor Denis Dubourdieu, one of the most sought after oenologists in France. Aromas of lychee and citrus fruits followed up by a sappy, tangy, intense burst of flavour.
Domaine de Chevalier 2008 (Wine Rack, £55.99)
This is a classic, fruity but very savoury Pessac-Léognan from a stand-out estate. Lush and ripe with intense blackcurrant and charcoal flavour. It has a lovely balance between fruit and oak, with a long, fresh finish.
First published in Living France magazine.
Spend less, drink better
The UK is a nation of bargain hunters. There are more pound shops on Britain’s high streets than bookstores. When it comes to wine we’re no different; most of what we buy is on promotion. We may outwardly assert to the omniscient boffin on the Antiques Roadshow that of course we’d never sell great aunt Millie’s favourite elephant sculpture, it means far too much to us... but the cackling David Dickenson on our shoulder has already blown the proceeds on Bordeaux. And wouldn’t it taste even better if that claret was a jaw dropping, eye popping bargain?
Fat chance of that though; along with big name Champagne, top flight claret is rarely a steal. On promotion or not, most famous wine regions are generally best avoided if you’re looking for value. So what is the best way to get maximum bang for buck when shopping for wine? I asked a selection of professional wine buyers, the wine world’s equivalent of the Antiques Roadshow expert, for the inside track.
There are three strategies to bear in mind: explore undervalued or overperforming regions and styles; pay less; and make the wine taste better once you’ve bought it.
Undervalued regions
When quizzing the buyers on which areas to explore for excellent value wines, one country came up time and time again. “Spain is doing a cracking job” says Philippa Carr MW from Asda. Nick Room from Waitrose agrees, pointing towards Campo de Borja, Calatayud and Jumilla in particular, whereas Jason Millar from London independent Theatre of Wine praises “all that old vine Monastrell from the south... convincing wines that have an awful lot to offer for not much money.” Portugal is also singled out for praise by all three, variously citing Alentejo, Lisboa and Vinho Verde as regions or styles to watch.
Southern Italy, particularly Sicily, is suggested as a good hunting ground. Central and Eastern Europe are also put forward; Carr suggests Slovenia and Croatia, and Millar backs Bulgaria: “a country for us that is producing very good wines at very reasonable prices.” Others to add to the list are South America, Greece and Southern France. Simon Cairns at The Cooperative suggests a mixed bunch including the following: Picpoul de Pinet, Lirac, Barbaresco, Carmenère, Tasmanian sparkling and South American Cabernet Franc.
Susan McCraith MW who consults to Bargain Booze and Wine Rack advises a more general tactic. “Look for satellite areas of better known appellations,” she says, “if you like Sancerre, look for a Quincy.” Millar suggests revisiting regions that are currently unfashionable. Pierre Mansour at The Wine Society concurs, pointing at Sherry: “it’s ridiculous value... the complexity you get for the price.”
For good value in sparkling wine, Mansour recommends Cava over Prosecco. “It’s regarded as cheap and cheerful, but as a Champagne-style alternative, Cava is super value. Prosecco is an altogether simpler wine.” Looking for value further up the price range “it’s all those areas that don’t have a brand identity for fine wine” he says, suggesting Spain, South Africa, the Rhône and Australia: “once you start moving up above £15 a bottle in Australia, the fine wines you can buy at that price point are exceptionally good value... I think it’s a bit of a blind spot.” For sweet wines, Nick Room suggests looking to the New World rather than classic names such as Sauternes.
Millar sums up the overall strategy succinctly: “be bolder, be adventurous.” If you stick to reliable retailers, you should at least avoid poor quality – you may occasionally end up with something unusual, but that’s all part of the fun.
Buy smarter
Another route to good value is simply to pay less money for the wine you buy. Most retailers, such as London independent Lea & Sandeman, offer discounts and free delivery on mixed cases. “If someone’s regularly coming in and ordering large volumes, we’re willing to talk to them [about discounts]... Pay cash and smile, and you never know, we may throw in another bottle” says director Charles Lea. It’s always worth haggling if you’re buying in bulk.
Don’t forget to use price comparison websites such as wine-searcher.com to ensure you’re getting the lowest prices, particularly with more expensive wines. Some independents offer the option of buying certain fine wines en primeur (i.e. paying up front before the wine is bottled and receiving your wine a year or two later), which can be cheaper than waiting to buy the wine in bottle (though not always, especially in the case of Bordeaux).
What about buying on promotion? Promotional deals can appear to be a short cut to value, but the public is catching on that some promotions are a con. It’s difficult to generalise, but as a rule it’s the ‘high/low’ supermarket promotions that should be avoided. If it’s too good to be true (50% off for example) it probably is i.e. the ‘discounted’ low price is the wine’s true value; the ‘original’ higher price is artificially inflated. Independent merchants and online specialists are less likely to play this game. Promotions remain an effective way of managing stocks however, so ‘bin end’ discounts and the like shouldn’t be passed over, and can offer genuine savings.
When buying from supermarkets, a better option is to consider the top rung of their own-label ranges. Carr from Asda explains they are less likely to be promoted using such price mechanics, but instead by using medals won at competitions or quoting critics’ endorsements. Don’t forget to factor in the time and expense it takes to visit physical stores; if the experience isn’t a pleasure, buy online and get it delivered instead. If you’re happy shopping online, consider joining The Wine Society. Lifetime membership costs £40, but the prices tend to be lower than the competition thanks to their co-operative business model.
A number of buyers recommend spending more money per bottle to get better value... and they do have a point. The fixed costs made up of tax, packaging and transport mean that once you get to a certain price level, quality increases rapidly. At the national average of just over a fiver per bottle, very little of your money is actually going on wine. McCraith explains “because of duty, it’s worth spending and extra pound or two, and buying wines over £7 or £8 because you’re getting a lot more value for your money.”
Optimise flavour
So you’ve bought some overperforming wines at the best possible price. But it doesn’t stop here: there’s more you can do to get optimum pleasure out of your bottle. Start by putting your reds in the fridge for 15 minutes before you drink them. It makes the flavours more defined, the alcohol less noticeable and the wine more refreshing. Conversely, whites are best brought out of the fridge 10 minutes before you drink them.
Another cost-free method that can make a huge difference to flavour is aeration; contact with air reanimates the aromas. Swirl it in the glass and suck air through the wine when it’s in your mouth. If it’s young or full-bodied, decant it for a couple of hours to wake it up before drinking.
There is a host of wine accessories on the market, but first and foremost invest in some decent glassware. Daniel Primack of wine accessories specialist Around Wine agrees “most of all, a wine glass of ideal shape and size will greatly enhance the flavour of the wine you’re drinking.” Riedel make over 100 different types of wine glass, but in my experience five types of glass cover most eventualities: two for reds (one for medium-bodied, aromatic reds; one for full-bodied, tannic reds); two for whites (one for fresh, aromatic whites; one for full, rich whites); and one for sparkling wines (not the classic Champagne flute – something wider is more effective).
Many of us buy wine to drink with food, in which case it makes sense to learn the basics of food and wine matching. Even if you bag a brilliant sweet Riesling for pennies, if you drink it with a chargrilled steak you won’t be getting the most out of it. And, if you can, share your wine with someone that cares as much about wine as you do, you’ll both enjoy it all the more.
Most wines are designed to be drunk young, but the more you spend over the £10 mark, the more likely it is that you can increase your drinking pleasure by pulling the cork at the right time in the wine’s life cycle. Lea’s somewhat impractical (yet nonetheless valid) advice is “buy a house with a cellar... it’s cheaper than getting it stored professionally.” All wines are different, but most reds, Champagnes and top-end whites will benefit from a few years in the bottle; for others a decade or two would be even better. Investing in a wine fridge, a cellar or an account with a wine storage facility might be an undertaking for the more dedicated winelover, but it repays with hugely increased drinking pleasure.
Sharpen your tongue
Any of these three strategies should help you get better value for money; exploring undervalued regions, getting the best possible price, and tweaking when and how you drink it. If you can combine all three, then so much the better. There are a couple of other approaches that will help you get even more enjoyment from every bottle, and they cost nothing.
If there’s one mouthful of wine that is worth more than any other, surely it’s the first sip; you stop, pay attention and really listen to what it’s saying. As you work your way down the bottle, remember to stop every now and again and really taste like it’s the first mouthful again.
Finally, beware of expectations. Even if it’s an inexpensive wine, give it your full attention; search for the detail, and listen carefully. Plenty of wines that are famous now were cheap before the world caught on. Price does not always equate to quality, so taste every wine as if it’s Pétrus; you never know what you might find.
Ten great value wines
2011 Aldi ‘Minarete’ Ribera del Duero (Spain; 13.5%)
£5.49, Aldi
Dark brambly fruits and a touch of dark chocolate and some crème de mure. Some oaky, woody hints underneath. Full-bodied, rounded and fleshy, with a slick of ripe tannin that outstays its welcome just a touch on the finish. But otherwise well balanced and savoury, very drinkable. Not terribly easy to place as a Ribera, but nonetheless a well made wine. 87 points, very good value.
2012 Paseo White (Lisboa, Portugal; 12.5%)
£5.75, Oddbins
A blend of Arinto, Fernão Pires, Chardonnay and Moscatel. Very pale, with a light attractive perfume. White flowers and a touch of apricot. Light to medium-bodied, fresh, clean. Light to start with, but then has good concentration of flavour, medium length, and quite a firm finish. Not terribly characterful, but harmonious, drinkable and enjoyable. Quaffable, refreshing and very well balanced. 87 points, very good value.
2011 Asda ‘Extra Special’ Dão (Portugal; 13%)
£6.00, Asda
Bright and spicy nose with crispy bacon and blackberry fruits. Medium-bodied, good acidity, balanced alcohol and lots of clean juicy berry fruit flavour. Medium length, nicely balanced, thirst quenching stuff. Authentic and satisfying. 88 points, very good value.
2013 La Guardiense ‘Janare’ Falanghina del Sannio (Campania, Italy; 13.5% ABV)
£6.95, The Wine Society
Fairly quiet peach and ripe apricot nose, with some almond and fennel too. Full-bodied for a white, good concentration, full, firm, grippy finish with a touch of tannin - powerful stuff for something so fruity and fresh. Quite oily in texture. Nectarines on the finish. Very drinkable, well balanced, medium length. 88 points, very good value.
NV Gonzalez Byass ‘Leonor’ 12 year old Palo Cortado Sherry NV (Spain; 20% ABV)
£11.45, The Whisky Exchange
Pale sandy brown. Dates, figs, sultanas and currants. A touch of furniture polish, honeycomb and treacle. It has a really complex nose. Dry, savoury, and intensely flavoursome. Long, nicely balanced and fresh. A touch of caramel and toffee on the finish. Medium to full-bodied, very concentrated, deliciously drinkable. Incredibly complex for a wine priced at this level. We’re surely living in the golden age of absurdly cheap Sherry, it deserves to be twice the quoted price of £11.45. 92 points, very good value.
2009 Château Pech La Calévie Monbazillac (France; 14.5% ABV)
£11.95, The Wine Society
Gold coloured sweet wine with powerful aromatics of noble rot, bananas and ripe honeydew melon. Add to that fresh mushrooms, dried mango, apricot and turmeric. Full-bodied but balanced by precise acidity and intense concentration of flavour. Luscious, thick texture, honeyed sweetness but with a fresh, zingy finish. Utterly delicious, concentrated, long and balanced – punches well above its weight. 91 points, very good value.
2012 Concha y Toro ‘Marques de Casa Concha’ Chardonnay (Limarí, Chile; 14% ABV)
£12.95, winedirect.co.uk
Intense, lively, rich and fruity nose (pineapple). Medium-bodied, fresh, very pure. Lovely acidity and lift with a long, fruity, powerful, intensely mineral finish. Balanced use of oak, very long, well balanced. Impressive stuff. Limarí is one of the most exciting and underpriced regions for Chardonnay in the world and Concha y Toro is leading the pack. 93 points, very good value.
NV Nautilus ‘Cuvée Marlborough’ Brut (New Zealand; 12.0% ABV)
£14.95, winedirect.co.uk
70% Pinot Noir, 30% Chardonnay, bottle fermented. Apple, apricot and sweet pastry on the nose. Slightly nutty (almonds). Mouth-filling soft fizz. Juicy acidity. Good length, tangy finish. Clearly a touch warmer in climate than Champagne. Long, spicy, honeyed, toasty finish. Fruity, rich and delicious. Really makes an impression - fairly quiet on the nose, but bags of flavour, good balance and real complexity. Every sip is rewarding. The best sparkling I've tasted from New Zealand in a long time. 93 points, very good value.
2012 Vincent Paris ‘La Geynale’ Cornas (Rhône, France; 14% ABV)
£34.80, Jeroboams
Saturated dark purple colour. Like some kind of olfactory black hole, it seems to be sucking smell in rather than giving it out. Some perceptible plum, damson, and blackberry fruits can be coaxed out, and some shoe polish aromas. Enormous and unforgiving in the mouth. It seems to move your mouth rather than the other way round. Extremely intense, packed with ripe tannin, dark matter and flavour. Hard to believe it's made of grapes. All balanced though and savoury, with no excess sweetness, alcohol or oak. This is something else. Buy, then wait. The best value red in my 2012 Rhône Report. 96 points, very good value.
1968 D’Oliveras Boal Madeira (Portugal; 20% ABV)
£110, Fortnum & Mason
Brown like a dried date in the middle, with a yellowy-green edge. Incredibly complex nose of soy, plum sauce, walnuts, brown bread, old wood and leather-bound books. Medium sweet, incredibly intense but light, bright and dynamic in the mouth. Rolling waves of flavour carried along by a beam of acidity. Juicy and succulent like a plump sultana. Incredibly long, perfectly balanced, clear, focussed and majestic. The added value bonus of Madeira is that once opened it doesn’t go off like normal wine, you can keep it corked and take occasional sips, like a whisky. I asked the importer Geoff Bovey if Madeira got much better: “the ’22 Boal is in another league, another universe!” Hard to imagine: I’m saving up already. 98 points, very good value.
First published on timatkin.com.
Grignan-Les-Adhémar: A red and white wedding
Often referred to as a single entity, the Rhône really consists of two distinct regions. The Northern Rhône is a long valley stretching north-south, its powerful, dark reds made from the spicy Syrah. Directly underneath lies the Southern Rhône, an expanse of plains and rolling hills where the plump, juicy Grenache is central to their strawberry-and-damson scented blends.
There is one appellation however that feels like a marriage of these two partners. Though located in the south, Grignan-Les-Adhémar can’t take its eyes of the north. Geographically it’s very close; it sits between Avignon and Montélimar. It shares grape varieties with the Northern Rhône; winemakers blend Syrah and Grenache fairly equally here, and often use the Viognier grape of the north in their aromatic whites.
Many marriages involve a change of name, and Grignan is no different: the appellation was once called Côteaux du Tricastin. The official reason the appellation changed its name is that winemakers didn’t want to associate themselves with the nearby nuclear power station of the same name. Although understandable (imagine marketing Sellafield Mineral Water...), it’s a shame, as the gnarled name of Grignan belies the beauty of the town it’s named after and its surrounding countryside; rust-coloured truffle oaks in autumn, swaying fields of lavender in summer.
As a wine appellation, it feels like Grignan is having difficulty perfecting its signature. But their calling card is an appealing freshness thanks to the northerly Mistral wind that whips through its vineyards. The reds are often light, lean and very drinkable; the whites perfumed but not heavy. And with no established reputation, winemakers have to price their wines keenly to sell them. If you enjoy the reds of the Loire and Beaujolais, the best from Grignan can make a good value alternative.
Domaine de Montine ‘Gourmandises’ Blanc 2012 (The Wine Society, £7.95)
This straightforward but stylish white is made by one of the best family-owned estates of the appellation. It’s a great value crowd-pleaser – a clean, lightly floral nose and a rounded texture.
Delas Grignan-Les-Adhémar Rouge 2012 (Alistair Nugent Vintners, £8.46)
Fine and perfumed, this light red has all the characteristic freshness of the region. With authentic blackcurrant aromas and gentle tannins this would make a refreshing mid-week option.
Vignerons Ardéchois ‘Le Grand Deves’ Rouge 2012 (Yapp Brothers, £8.95)
This has more Syrah in the blend than the Delas, providing some spice alongside the blackcurrant, cranberry and dried herb aromas. Light to medium-bodied, very well-balanced with a savoury finish.
First published in Living France magazine.
Recent articles: 2012 Rhône Report, White Rhône, New World wines and food
Here are links to three recent articles I've written that appear elsewhere on the web.
Firstly, for timatkin.com, my 2012 Rhône Report - a 40-page, full colour PDF which highlights what to buy and what to avoid in this promising (if mixed) vintage. It took one month to produce and costs £12 to download.
Secondly, for www.matchingfoodandwine.com, Ten food-friendly wines from the Beautiful South - an article on matching food with New World wines and ten great examples.
And finally, for Imbibe magazine, The Rhône Ranger (and pronto) a trade article on how to find good value in white Rhône wines and how best to match them with food.
Enjoy!
Searching for the perfect Pinot Grigio
It’s OK, you can admit it. We’re all friends here. You don’t like Pinot Grigio, do you? To say so out loud feels a bit snobby, almost... grapist. But it seems even people who buy it aren’t that keen. Here are some typical quotes from a selection of casual drinkers I surveyed recently: “I only buy it in a restaurant when everything else is really expensive and the person I am with doesn't like wine that much.” “It was often the house wine so it feels a bit 'cheap' I suppose. Hard to say ‘Pinot Grigio’ without putting on an Essex accent in fact.” “If I was taking a bottle somewhere for someone who didn't really like wine, I'd probably buy a bottle of Pinot Grigio.” No wonder cracks in its reign are appearing. Try not to smile, it’s unkind.
And anyway, in the UK at least, Pinot Grigio remains ubiquitous. Mark Kermode, Commercial Director of UK wine distributor Enotria reports some impressive figures: over the past 15 years or so “the growth of Pinot Grigio has been double digit every year.” Market research company Wine Intelligence confirms “Pinot Grigio is the 3rd most consumed white wine, behind Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc... 54% of UK wine drinkers reported to consume Pinot Grigio in a 2013 survey.”
In the US its success is largely on the back of the flyaway popularity of Santa Margherita Pinot Grigio in the 1980s and 1990s. No doubt importers in the UK were peering over the fence, but over here there was no single definitive factor. Mike Stocks of restaurant chain Carluccio's says Pinot Grigio took off for them in the early 2000s: “sales soared to make it consistently either our best or second best seller in the restaurants and top seller in the deli.” He lists a number of success factors: it has an approachable style “with an unobtrusive intensity of flavour”, it’s well suited to drinking by itself, it’s versatile with food – and it’s easy to pronounce.
In the late 1990s, Chardonnay was the grape that everyone wanted to be seen with. But as its popularity increased so did the number of producers pumping out inferior bottles to cash in on demand. The floozy excesses of bargain-basement, fake tanned nineties Chardonnay remain easy to pick up on most street corners, but it’s been distinctly out of fashion for a number of years now. Subtle, pale and elegant, Pinot Grigio offered a refreshing alternative to Chardonnay, so it was well placed to step into the limelight.
That was more than ten years ago, and its youthful appeal is now on the wane. Its characteristic delicacy made it easy to copy: blandness can do fair impression of subtlety from a distance. The market has since been flooded with insipid, dull and bitter examples by the bandwagon-load. According to the University of Adelaide the number of countries that grow the grape rose from 14 in 2000 to 27 in 2010.
Some producers are even changing the name of their bottlings to avoid any toxic connotations. The Lane Vineyard from Adelaide Hills in Australia changed the name of its Pinot Grigio to Pinot Gris after launching it in the UK (same variety, but its French name rather than the Italian version). Vineyard Manager Marty Edwards explains “the problem arose when you asked the UK public to part with 12 quid of their hard-earned for a variety they had been trained to pay 4 quid for... people from all countries seem more open to spending higher amounts on Gris vs. Grigio.” I tasted through some of the best on the market; it turns out the very best Pinot Grigios offer not only wines of real finesse, but due to its devalued status, good value as well. The results are below.
Nonetheless, sales have started to slide. Wine Intelligence reports that “when looking at recent data from 2011 and 2013 we have observed a decline.” This might just be a blip, but my survey of drinkers points in the same direction. Of the ten who expressed an opinion, nine felt it is less popular now than it has been.
Like bad Chardonnay, it’s unlikely to suddenly disappear from the shelves, but after its long run on the top spot, the time feels right for something new to take its place. Ideas vary as to what this might be. Kermode from Enotria says “The natural successor to Pinot Grigio has been Prosecco but there are plenty of other indigenous white Italian varieties such as Vermentino, Fiano, Falanghina, Greco and Grecanico all vying to become the next big thing”. All are distinct possibilities, but it needn’t necessarily be an Italian that takes its place.
Anecdotally, Picpoul and Albariño are gaining in popularity. Perhaps a regional name will be the winner – Muscadet or Gavi. You had your chance, Grüner Veltliner, but that umlaut scared people off. I’d love to see Furmint, Gros Manseng or Godello take the baton, but I wouldn’t bet on it. The grape I’m backing works well with food, is grown around the world, has the potential for greatness, can age wonderfully and is a refreshing contrast to Pinot Grigio. That’s right, my money’s on... Pinot Gris.
The tasting
It’s only Pinot Grigio – how hard could this tasting be? Surprisingly so, as it happens. It’s a subtle wine, so it takes concentration to pick up on the detail. Many of the best make more of an impression on the mouth than the nose; freshness, acidity, texture and minerality are frequently its more compelling characteristics.
The human nose can differentiate between thousands of smells, but when it comes to describing different shades of acidity or defining minerality, the English language proves frustratingly blunt. Perhaps the lack of overt aromas has played a part in its success. Talking about wine still makes some people feel awkward – the less there is to say about it, the less pressure to find the words.
Among the 22 top-end Pinot Grigios I tasted, there was a good deal of variation, both in quality and style. Though the list is topped by five Italians (and four of them from Friuli), non-Italian examples also showed well. Many of the better versions approached Pinot Gris in style: richer, fuller and more characterful. I included a couple of ringers, such as The Lane Pinot Gris and Lis Neris ‘Gris’ just for fun. They underlined that Grigio to Gris is a spectrum, and the choice of term is more personal than technical. As such, those looking for one style over another would be better off reading the notes rather than taking the scores at face value.
Vie Di Romans ‘Dessimis’ 2011 (Isonzo, Friuli, Italy, 14.0%; £26.95, Hailsham Cellars)
Unexpectedly pale peach coloured. Very unusual aromatics. Apricot, peach, melon, papaya, spice. Full-bodied. Silky palate. Very intense texture and body. Sweet fruit and lots of citrusy acidity. Alcohol is high, shows a bit. Highly characterful, and would probably be hated by many Pinot Grigio lovers – atypical. Has real freshness and life. I’m guessing this has spent a while on the skins. Very mineral, mouthwatering finish, and long too. Would be a good match with roast pork. Finishes, eventually, with a touch of spice and minerality. Wow. Like a concentrated Pinot Grigio. 94 points, good value, now to 2017.
Lis Neris Pinot Grigio 2012 (Isonzo, Friuli, Italy, 13.5%; £20.00, Hanging Ditch)
Pale lemon colour. Lots of aroma - a very different style. Very floral, with pink peppercorn spice - almost like a restrained Gewurz. Pink grapefruit and lychee. Full-bodied, well balanced, with good acidity to back it up. Intense, mineral too. A lovely wine, but is it a great Pinot Grigio? Closer to a Pinot Gris. Lively, rich, drinkable, very good. Rounded but dry on the finish. Lots to enjoy here. Long. 93 points, fair value, now to 2015.
Livio Felluga Pinot Grigio 2012 (Colli Orientali, Friuli, Italy, 13.0%; £21.75, Eclectic Tastes)
Pale straw colour. Blossomy flowers on the nose, fresh and attractive. Medium-bodied, nicely balanced. Incisive acidity. Fresh, clean and reasonable length. A good example, lean fresh and very drinkable. Tiny touch of sweetness on the finish adds to the appeal. I'd be happy to drink this with a simple fish dish or alone. A lovely wine - the sensation is very clean. Good persistence. 92 points, fair value, now to 2015.
De Stefani Pinot Grigio 2012 (Veneto, Italy, 14.0%; £12.75, H2Vin (2011))
Intensely floral - like a rose. Compellingly interesting nose - celery, parsley, herbal, vegetal and floral. Highly distinctive aromatics. Full-bodied, rich and intense. I wouldn't guess Pinot Grigio - much more aromatic and intense than the usual, but still fairly subtle. Very full, lots of acidity, and slightly off-dry. Definitely a food wine, far from the normal. Not long, but makes an impression. 91 points, good value, now to 2016.
Lis Neris ‘Gris’ 2011 (Isonzo, Friuli, Italy, 14.0%; £25.00, Hanging Ditch)
Some depth of yellow colour in this one. Gewurzy - pink grapefruit, pink peppercorns. A touch of sulphur? Very spicy, more Pinot Gris than Pinot Grigio. Full-bodied, with lots of intense texture and flavour. Piercing finish - needs food. Long finish. Very atypical. New World? A highly distinctive wine, but you'd never guess Pinot Grigio. Full of life and vitality. Detailed, finely crafted. Long, slightly bitter finish. 91 points, fair value, now to 2017.
Simčič Pinot Grigio 2012 (Goriška Brda, Slovenia, 13.5%; £11.28, Wine 360 (2009))
Rose gold coloured. Slightly cheesy on the nose. Full-bodied, rich, a bit heavy. Lovely silky body though. Interesting intensity, but not the most dainty. Lots of focus and length. Difficult to judge as it’s atypical - more Pinot Gris than Grigio. Not exactly refreshing, a touch heavy. Very long. A really interesting wine - unexpectedly. 90 points, good value, now to 2015.
Elena Walch Pinot Grigio 2012 (Alto Adige, Italy, 13.0%; £14.35, Gerard Seel)
Pale yellow with a hint of green. Aroma arrives in a cloud, a bit like a Pinot Blanc on the nose. Touch of apricot; subtle, but fresh. Some florality too. Dry, rounded. Very pure and clean. Pretty serious and mineral. Little touch of dill and fennel. This would work with food - it has depth and an interesting texture, even if fairly quiet in flavour. Very detailed, you can tell it's made by someone who really cares about the precise outcome. Long. 90 points, good value, now to 2015.
Argento Pinot Grigio 2013 (Argentina, 13.5%; £8.99, Waitrose (2012))
Very pale, almost colourless. Attractive, slightly fruity nose - bergamot? Slightly peppery, spicy. Relatively full-bodied, just over medium. Rounded texture, fruity. Finishes dry. Has some real interest. Fresh and very drinkable. Fair length. Alcohol a touch high? It may be fairly subtle, but it's detailed. Somewhere between Pinot Grigio and a Pinot Gris. 90 points, good value, now to 2016.
The Lane ‘Block 2 Single Vineyard’ Pinot Gris 2012 (Adelaide Hills, Australia, 13.5%; £14.95, Corney & Barrow)
Very pale yellow with a hint of silver. Fairly innocuous nose, green apple, touch of seashell. Light- to medium-bodied, very fresh and zingy on the palate. Good acidity, well balanced. Classic Pinot Grigio but with some real character - tastes like a good terroir for PG. Long, straight, very clean. Finished very dry. Pretty intense. 90 points, fair value, now to 2015.
Specogna Pinot Grigio 2012 (Colli Orientali, Friuli, Italy, 13.0%; £15.99, AG Wines)
Pale salmon pink. Banana and apricot, some fermentation aromas. Savoury spices on the nose. Slight spritz. Lively. Very fresh and balanced. Long too - this is good. Lovely to drink. Dry, herbal finish. Lots of intensity, makes quite an impression. Perhaps just a touch aggressive on the finish. 89 points, fair value, now to 2015.
Erste & Neue Pinot Grigio 2012 (Alto Adige, Italy, 13.5%; £14.95, Roberson)
Pale lemon green, tiniest hint of pink. Fresh, herbal nose - fennel, radish, parsley. Very cool climate or very early picked I suspect. Body a bit full for the style, but then balanced by lots of acidity. Surprisingly intense palate, like snapping a bunch of wet celery in my face. Enjoyable, identifiably Pinot Grigio, and intense in impression considering its light flavour. Memorable. But could do with less body/more lightness. 89 points, fair value, now to 2015.
Schreckbichl Colterenzio Pinot Grigio 2012 (Alto Adige, Italy, 13.5%; £12.95, Great Western Wines)
Very pale yellow. Smells freshly fermented. Some florality, a touch of melon and pear. Tiny hint of a spritz. Rounded and fruity, slightly off dry. Good length of fruit - a bit more to it than the average, a fruity style. Well balanced. Some concentration and intensity. Not bad at all. Fresh, pure, clean and well made. 89 points, fair value, now to 2015.
Image credit: creative commons photo by Photo Monkey
First published on timatkin.com.
Saint Mont: Weird and wonderful
Some wine regions make it easy for us, planting recognisable varieties such as Chardonnay, Merlot and Sauvignon Blanc. Others, such as Saint Mont, are wilfully obscure. Glass of Arufiac, anyone?
The Saint Mont area takes its name from a tiny village in the foothills of the Pyrenees, one of a number that make up the broader appellation. With just 300 inhabitants, this elderly hamlet is perched on the edge of a hill on the south-western edge of Gascony. The villages are interspersed with farms, vineyards and cornfields for foie gras production.
It is an area proud of its food and wine traditions. One of its gifts to the world is Armagnac, a grape spirit that has seen its fortunes decline dramatically in recent years. Turning to wine production to survive, Armagnac producers might understandably have chosen well-known varieties. But André Dubosc, the charismatic, beret-wearing Willy Wonka of the wine world, had a more eccentric plan.
He gathered the disparate local growers together, formed a co-operative winery and convinced them to concentrate on ancient local varieties instead. So for their whites, they blend Petit Courbu, Arufiac, Gros Manseng and Petit Manseng. For their reds and rosés they use Tannat, Pinenc and the more recognisable Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon. The reds are concentrated, dark and brooding with earthy, spicy undertones. The whites are typically dry, tangy, sappy, rich in colour and flavour.
Dubosc may now have retired, but Plaimont Producteurs remains a beacon of excellence amongst French co-ops. His legacy is a vineyard of over a hundred heritage strains saved from extinction from the surrounding area, many of which still remain unidentified. The next one tipped for greatness is Manseng Noir, and plantings have already begun at neighbouring winery Château de Cassaigne. Like a kid in a sweetshop, I can’t wait to try it.
Marks & Spencer Saint Mont 2012 (M&S, £7.99)
This juicy, sappy white made from Gros Manseng, Petit Courbu and Arufiac has bags of pineapple and lime flavour and a tingling finish.
Château de Sabazan Saint Mont 2010 (Spirited Wines, £16.40 for the 2008)
Very spicy aroma, full-bodied with lots of rich dark fruit flavour and a hint of leather. A perfect partner for duck.
Le Faîte Saint Mont 2011 (Portland Wine, £18.95)
Rich yet lean, with perfumed quince aromas followed up by an intense citrusy burst of flavour. One of the most distinctive whites of the region – even better with a few years in bottle.
First published in Living France.
Supergrapes vs. Evil Greegeo
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Whenever I hear about a new graphic novel based around wine like The Drops of God or The Initiates, I get excited. They tend to be fairly grown-up affairs, but I’m still secretly holding out for the action-packed exploits of a team of masked avengers clad in purple spandex. Their mission? To save the world from Evil Greegeo and his Stepford Wines – a zombie army of limp, soulless, mass market bottles, hell-bent on taking over the world (or at least the local supermarket).
Come to think of it, there are a few grape varieties that would make perfect superheroes. Their day-to-day personas are mild mannered to say the least. The wines they make are pretty weak – they are what Clark Kent is to broadsheet journalism. But when transformed into their superhero alter-egos, they can make some of the most awe-inspiring taste sensations the world has ever seen. Supergrapes Assemble!
Plain and pale, Palomino Fino lives by the sea in southern Spain. He led an undistinguished life until one day he fell into a barrel of mysterious sentient mould. Since then, like some kind of Spanish Popeye, all Palomino needs is a handful of the green stuff and SHAZAM! he’s transformed into something altogether more amazing. Palomino becomes Fino Sherry, saving the day whenever a tricky food and wine matching situation raises its ugly head. Admittedly it’s not the most useful superpower, but he also displays amazing savoury flavours that no other wine contains, and has extraordinary powers of refreshment.
One thousand kilometres to the west lives Tinta Negra in his tropical island paradise. One day this oddball red grape was bitten by a radioactive mole that lived in its volcanic soils, and in a fit of delirium Tinta exposed himself to levels of heat that would kill any other wine stone dead. But like the radioactive spider that turned Peter Parker into Spiderman, the mole gave Tinta Negra powers beyond his wildest dreams. The fires didn’t kill him, they made him stronger – maderisation increased his strength and blessed him with immortality. He brought together a gaggle of other eccentrics and oddballs (Sercial, Bual, Verdelho and Malvasia), and together they colonised Madeira. These mutants offer their unique gifts to humanity, but, like a Portuguese X-Men, they remain largely misunderstood.
France’s superhero grape started out as a hyper intelligent but runty farmhand in deepest Gascony. Ugni Blanc was spurned by the outside world for making weak, acidic wines. In an attempt to reverse his fortunes, he shut himself away in a dilapidated barn and started building The Alambic, an elaborate copper alchemy device. One night, after one glass of wine too many, he fell inside his contraption. He emerged out of the other end transformed into Armagnac, a kind of beret-wearing steampunk Ironman.
His superpowers? He’s three times stronger than wine, he can last forever and he’s considerably more charismatic than his arch-enemy Cognac. But they don’t stop there; according to a 700-year-old document in the Vatican called the Very Useful Book for Conserving One’s Health and Staying on Top Form (I’m not even joking), Armagnac has no fewer than 40 health-giving powers. Among them he can cure hepatitis, cankers, fistula, paralysis, flesh wounds – and gout. And there was me thinking he caused it.
Our international gathering of supergrapes is a bit of a random bunch really – if they starred in a film it would be more Mystery Men than Avengers Assemble. The real heroes are the winemakers and distillers of these unloved but brilliant elixirs who refuse to give up on their traditions even in the face of adversity. Sherry, Madeira and Armagnac have all been revered over the centuries, but have seen their fortunes slide of late. Thanks to the craftsmen behind them there remain some incredible drinks we can rely on for extreme taste experiences that help defend us from Evil Greegeo and his army of blandness.
Image © Glenat
Minervois: press rehearsal
A brief intro to Minervois...
Underneath the glowering Montagne Noire, due east of Carcassonne, sits the Languedoc region of Minervois. It’s an impressive backdrop for an area that can produce some entertaining wines. The region refers to the village of Minerve, named after Minerva, the Roman goddess of wisdom and patron of the arts. It’s a small, picturesque jumble of stones perched on top of a steep gorge. Its wines are as dramatic as its landscape.
A drop of white and a splash of rosé is made in Minervois but the vast majority is red, and from four principal players: Carignan, Syrah, Mourvèdre and Grenache. To these are added a supporting cast of characterful locals including Cinsault, Terret, Aspiran, Lledoner Pelut and Piquepoul Noir. This is a hot, parched land and the concentrated grapes make rambunctious wines with Mediterranean themes of black olive, wild herbs and ripe black berries.
The reds can be riveting, but if they get too intense light relief can be found in the sweet wines made around St-Jean-de-Minervois in the far north eastern corner. These are made from Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains, and although full and luscious, they retain a fresh floral side that other Languedoc sweet wines don’t always offer.
Back in the centre of the region, in the foothills of the Montagne Noir, you come across the tiny village of La Livinière. The surrounding vineyards enjoy a favourable microclimate, which has led to the wines being given the elevated appellation of ‘Minervois-La Livinière’. Always red, the wines from this south-facing amphitheatre combine fullness and power with a textural finesse rarely found elsewhere in the Languedoc. The cool breezes that descend from the mountain add freshness and energy. Though usually benevolent, these winds can occasionally turn angry, building into raging tempests that lash the vineyards.
The extremes of weather haven’t put off foreign investors, with winemakers from Burgundy, Bordeaux and even further afield all arriving to stage their own productions – often to great acclaim. Names to look out for are Abbotts & Delaunay, L’Ostal Cazes, Château de Cesseras and Château Maris. At the cheaper end, the wines can have trouble containing their Falstaffian excesses, but the best are finding a broader range and more subtlety of expression. Minervois may be an ancient setting, but the wines are still developing; its best performances are yet to come.
First published in Living France magazine.
Châteauneuf-du-Pape: critical mass
A quick intro to the wines of Châteauneuf...
Exploring the vineyards of Châteauneuf-du-Pape can feel unnerving. They feel ancient and strangely sentient. It is a unique and bizarre terrain; round bone-coloured stones that vary in size from a fist to a head piled on terracotta earth. You can’t help but think of the poor monks that first toiled over this disobedient ground in the scorching heat, plagued by the sound of screaming cicadas. Nowadays low vineyards stretch across this flat land as far as the eye can see, punctuated by the occasional exclamatory cypress.
The vines aren’t neatly trained on wires, they sit alone in rows like gargoyles with unruly green hair. For red wines, the locals mostly cultivate Grenache, with Syrah and Mourvèdre in second place – though there is a total of 14 possible varieties to choose from. Some select a few, others grow the whole lot. They also produce a little white wine, mostly fat, full-bodied blends of Grenache Blanc, Bourboulenc, Roussanne and Clairette.
The reds may be known for their power, but they don’t brim with thick black fruits like, say, an Australian Shiraz. Grenache tends to give sweet red fruit and dried herb flavours, with a lavish, silky texture and generous levels of alcohol. The other grapes in the blend all add something of their own, whether it’s the peppery spice of Syrah or the body and texture of Mourvèdre. Complexity develops further as the wines age, the best evolving for decades.
The small, pretty town of Châteauneuf-du-Pape itself is located in the centre of the vineyards, six miles north of Avignon in the Southern Rhône. The ruins of the papal castle watch over it from on high. It is relatively unspoilt except for the lorries chugging down the narrow streets, laden with wine. There are countless signs at every crossroads pointing the way to the 80 or so local producers.
Châteauneuf has its share of mediocre growers, relying on its celebrated name to sell their wares rather the actual quality of what they produce. The most famous names may not be cheap, but the wines are extraordinary and arguably represent good value: Château de Beaucastel, Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe and particularly Clos des Papes. Less expensive but high quality wines can be found at the following domaines: Chante Cigale, Domaine de la Mordorée, Bosquet des Papes, Roger Sabon, Font de Michelle and Vignobles Mayard. The best are bottled decadence.
First published in Living France magazine.
Contemporary drinking
Here's a link to a piece I wrote for The Wine Society's newsletter on changing attitudes to drinking wine in the UK.
http://www.thewinesociety.com/