Early drinking
I never thought I’d say this, but I’m beginning to miss the huge off-licence chains we had in the UK 10 years ago. Not that their ranges were that interesting, but I’m coming to realise they had a higher purpose. These thousands of wine shops across the land made wine noticeable. It implied that wine was important and worth exploring. This was backed up by a greater number of decent wine columns in national newspapers. There’s plenty of information online if you search, but offline it feels like wine is becoming less and less visible. Fortunately there are some wine lovers out there at grass roots level giving a hand up to the next generation.
Compared to beer and spirits, the wine industry has never been very good at reaching out to new drinkers. There are a number of reasons. It’s a complex topic to communicate to beginners, and it seems like many in the wine trade naively believe people will simply fall into it naturally, like gardening or Radio 4. The main issue, however, is the fragmented nature of production coupled with low margins. It’s not easy or affordable for so many small estates to reach out to new people in multiple foreign markets. But if they don’t succeed in connecting with new customers over here, the UK market will gradually become less vibrant, less varied and less interesting for all of us.
There are some companies successfully reaching out to new drinkers. E&J Gallo’s Apothic brand includes a sweeter style of red (16 g/l residual sugar) that has been hugely popular in the US and is energetically marketed to a younger audience. On a more holistic level, Naked Wines have a very inclusive approach to their business, connecting winemakers and consumers directly via social media, meaning blends can be tweaked according to customer feedback. Whether you like their wines or not, they are both doing more than most to get new drinkers into wine, and I respect them for that.
Wines created to please a specific market however often make me think of manufactured boy bands as opposed to genuine musicians. Personally speaking, the wines that have brought me a higher level of pleasure have been those that challenge; wines whose taste takes time to appreciate, rather than wines that have bent over backwards to appeal to me. Handmade wines with integrity, a sense of place and a story to tell; craft wines, in other words. It’s hard to imagine a marketing department coming up with anything to rival Manzanilla, Barolo or Savennières any time soon.
There are a handful of enterprises however that are finding original ways to engage with new drinkers without dumbing down – if anything, by celebrating the esoteric, the challenging and the truly great. Wine Car Boot is one of them. Ruth Spivey has done an excellent job of convincing some of the best independents in the UK to come out of their shops to pour a selection of interesting bottles for a younger crowd in the car parks of some of the trendier neighbourhoods of London. The events take inspiration from street food festivals, with music, atmosphere and good things to eat. “Just because you’re into wine doesn’t mean you don’t have other interests or you don’t want to have fun” says Spivey. “People feel intimidated in wine shops. I wanted to do it in a place you’d want to hang out.”
Another project that gets wine out of its traditional setting to reach new people is the London Wine Sessions. The concept is a day of wine-related talks and tastings that takes place in different venues around London where you ‘never hear about an interesting wine without getting to taste it’. Wine consultant Zeren Wilson is one of the organisers alongside Emily O’Hare and Sophie Dening. He explains they aim to “repackage the fine wine experience and present it in a different way – casual, relaxed and younger, with more of a bar vibe.”
A new crop of bars is also helping introduce a younger crowd to proper wines. Sager + Wilde and Verden are spearheading the trend for modern bars in fashionable neighbourhoods that incorporate fresh design, craft wines and a cash margin pricing structure that makes top names easier to access. Michael Sager-Wilde describes his customers as largely a younger gathering that’s “very, very curious, adventurous, they want to try stuff… and they all drink wine.” Their average spend is £9.20 a glass and £58 a bottle. “I think there’s going to be lots more wine bars,” he says, “maybe we’re going to see something with wine like the cocktail explosion – maybe.” I hope he’s right.
These aren’t the only people proactively reaching out to the next generation of wine drinkers of course. Shops like Noble Fine Liquor and The Sampler have a youthful approach, as do events like Cambalache and fanzines like Noble Rot, not to mention wine blogs like Miss Bouquet and Wine Woman Song. But as an industry it still feels like these are distinctly in the minority.
Much of this activity is done primarily for the love rather than the money. As winelovers, it’s vital that we support the events, the crowdfunding campaigns and the pop-ups, even if just by spreading the word through social media. These are the incubators of the future wine scene that we will all be a part of. What we’re drinking in another 10 years’ time may depend on it.
First published on timatkin.com.
St Péray: Cut from a different cloth
A quick intro to the wines of St Péray...
Like a beauty pageant, the major wine regions of France try on many different styles in an attempt to please the masses. But they all have a weak spot. The reds of Alsace rarely excite; Burgundy seldom attempts sweet wines; and in the Rhône, it’s the sparkling wines that often disappoint.
For over a century, the little valley of St Péray in the Northern Rhône was tasked with making fizz; it has a cool microclimate which gives its wines refreshment value. Some producers made good wines, but hardly on a par with Champagne. But all along its talents lay elsewhere. More and more winemakers are now turning their hands to still wines, and some are truly world class.
They only make whites in St Péray, using either Marsanne, Roussanne, or a blend of both. As still wines, both varieties give full-bodied, rich results but with different aromatics. Marsanne offers mango, apricot, almond and honey; Roussanne gives pear, quince, acacia and spice. A touch of oak ageing can add further honeycomb and vanilla detail.
For years, St Péray was like a tailor churning out cheap sequined dresses. But it gradually became apparent that, with the right touch, the luxurious raw materials available could be crafted into something altogether more couture. The best St Péray winemakers now make broad shouldered, silky wines, but with elegance and balance.
Though the wines are often full and round, they use their acidity and minerality to retain freshness and precision. St Péray is a tiny appellation and is still discovering its new-found talents. As time goes by, it’s catching the eye of more and more wine lovers. But for now, you can enjoy Lanvin style for French Connection prices.
Paul Jaboulet Aîné St Péray ‘La Sauvagère’ 2012 (The Wine Society, £11.95)
Subtle mango and apricot aromas with a hint of spice. Full-bodied and refreshing despite the low acidity. Not an intensely flavoured wine, but a beautifully textured and balanced one.
Domaine Bernard Gripa St Péray ‘Les Pins’ 2012 (Vine Trail, £19.15)
Lime flowers and lovely pear fruit. Full-bodied, with lots of energy, freshness and vitality. Long, pure, clean, mineral finish. No excess fat – an example of just how fresh and elegant St Péray can be.
Domaine du Tunnel St Péray ‘Cuvée Prestige’ 2012 (Berry Bros & Rudd, £29.95)
Fresh cream and macadamia nuts on the nose. Lots of body and intensity of flavour, taking fruit from the Marsanne and spice from the Roussanne. Plenty of acidity, with a cleansing mineral edge on the finish. Very clean, very long, very impressive.
First published in Living France magazine.
Madiran: Blood reds
The vineyards of Madiran are hidden away in the foothills of the Pyrenees in Gascony. They stretch along four jagged ridges that creep northwards from the mountains towards Bordeaux like a skeletal hand.
This is where the locals try to tame the Tannat. It’s a furiously energetic grape variety, so the winemakers need to hack back the vines mercilessly in an attempt to control them. Bottles labelled ‘Tradition’ are generously blended with Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc or Fer Servadou to create powerful yet fruity wines made to be gobbled up whilst young and lively.
The more Tannat in the blend, the more intense and uncompromising the wine. Its name gives a clue to its nature; Tannat imbues its wines with prodigious levels of tannin, the substance that gives body and texture to red wines. The best examples back up this bulk with rapier-like acidity, and top it off with a splatter of blackberry juice. Drinking it young is like fighting a werewolf.
They also make a small amount of sturdy white wine, mostly from the little known but highly characterful Gros Manseng, Petit Manseng and Petit Courbu grapes. Rather than simply calling it Madiran Blanc, it’s known under the altogether more mysterious ‘Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh’. Whether it’s sweet or dry should be clear from the label – both can be excellent.
When young, Madiran deserves its fearsome reputation and the wines can be a thrill to tackle. The best option is to pit them against rich, flavoursome dishes like roast duck or grilled red meats. But they mellow with age, and the best take on incredible depth and complexity with time. Buy a wooden case in a good vintage, then lock it in a cellar for a decade until it’s ready; you’ll be pleased you did. It might be worth hammering in some extra nails to the lid to keep it safely closed in the meantime. Just in case...
Reserve des Tuguets 2010 (Tesco, £11.99)
Earthy, brambly fruits with a touch of liquorice. Relatively friendly tannins, so a gentle introduction to the style. Buy when on promotion.
Château Viella ‘Prestige’ 2010 (Judith Hardy Wines, £15.00)
Vibrant acidity, a slick of ripe tannin and intense damson fruit flavour all in balance to create a rampantly delicious and wild Madiran.
Château Montus 2007 (The Wine Society, £19.00)
Bright, perfumed black berry fruit aromas belie the concentrated mass of flavour in the glass. Very long and powerful, but polished and refined. Montus is an estate of indisputable greatness.
First published in Living France magazine.
Newcomers on the scene
They wouldn’t have got past the elevator pitch in Dragons’ Den. “So you want to sell premium Austrian wines from a transport container in the East End of London?” summarises a puzzled Duncan Bannatyne; “I’m ooot.” But after just four months, Newcomer Wines is nearly breaking even already. What makes this all the more impressive is that co-owner Peter Honegger is just 22 years old and manages the store while studying for a university degree. Age and business experience clearly needn’t be barriers to getting involved in the London wine scene – creativity and a willingness to embrace your local market are much more important.
It’s unusual to meet wine entrepreneurs in their early twenties in the UK, but Honegger had a head start. He attended a vocational high school in Vienna that focussed on tourism, where he took a youth sommelier course as a teenager. On completing his studies, he moved to London with his girlfriend Daniela Pillhofer to go to university (Peter at Cass, Daniela at LSE) with no intention of starting a wine business. Seeing how poorly represented Austrian wine was in the UK, he saw an opportunity, but thought to himself “maybe this niche needs a new approach... If you think about Austrian wine in London – you think of nothing. There is no image attached. So we can define the image.”
Newcomer Wines inhabits one of the forty or so stripped and refitted shipping containers that make up Boxpark Shoreditch, a ‘pop-up mall’ in one the trendier parts of London. Living nearby, they thought it would make an interesting and convenient place to start out that offered low overheads. “We decided for sure to work on this concept in June 2013” says Honegger. The only challenge was securing an alcohol licence in a part of London that already has more than its fair share of pubs, bars and convenience stores. They opened shortly after, in January 2014; “opening a company takes only half an hour online... and shipping the wine is pretty easy.”
Shoreditch has long been known for its nightlife and is now a hub for London’s creative, tech and online start-up community. Most of the other Boxpark units however are rented by small independent fashion brands. In the same way that larger fashion stores group together individual designers’ collections, the wines at Newcomer are displayed by producer rather than region or grape variety.
Honegger and Pillhofer started with a shortlist of 30 wineries, but after a series of blind tastings with a panel consisting of both experts and casual drinkers, they reduced this down to 10. As you walk around the fairly cramped space, what immediately strikes you is the creativity and originality of the labels. It was part of the selection criteria to appeal to local drinkers. “The quality has to be there, it’s a prerequisite” Honegger says of the wine, “but we needed something else to make people curious, to want to learn more.” Two labels were made specifically for the company, inspired by local graffiti. As for the rest, “it’s just how the winemakers present themselves... after all, people buy on the label.”
Each producer section has a tablet that plays a short video of around a minute that presents the winery, but prioritises the winemaker’s story over the wines themselves. “I think people can relate more to a wine if they know where it comes from” says Honegger. “But essentially the winemakers are just pretty normal people. We want to change the way people think about wine. Some people still think it’s a bit snobby and posh, but it's really about coming together with friends... it’s a social thing.”
In addition to each tablet, there is a huge central touchscreen set in a wine barrel with suggestions on how to match the wines with the right food, the right occasion or even the right company. The rest of the store has a DIY approach – “everything you see was made by us; we cut the shelves, we printed the wallpaper.” Rather than a wine shop, Honegger presents Newcomer Wines as a platform to help small Austrian winemakers reach winelovers here in the UK, and vice-versa. The unit is ‘showroom’ to introduce local drinkers to the winemakers, their stories, and of course their wines.
Because the site is small, the range is restricted to around 40 wines, but it still manages to cover eight different regions and a relatively wide selection of grape varieties and styles. Among the whites (which on tasting were more consistent than the reds) there is plenty of Grüner Veltliner and Riesling, but also curiosities like Rotgipfler, Neuberger and Traminer; reds are mostly Blaufränkisch, Zweigelt and Pinot Noir; he also stocks a smattering of rosé, sweet and sparkling wines. Each producer has two or three ‘everyday’ wines between £9 and £19 and one or two ‘flagship’ wines above £20; only a handful top the £50 mark. Character and individuality sometimes take precedence over technical precision or traditional classicism in some of the selection, but this suits the style of the store.
London’s position as one of the most exciting and varied cities in the world to enjoy wines is strengthening all the time. “The concept wouldn’t work in Vienna,” says Honegger, “but in London people are really open-minded.” He proves that it doesn’t take a huge investment in time or money to get started; creativity and a desire to help new people get into good wine are more important. That wine has traditionally been such a conservative business means there is plenty of room for new and original approaches – even for leftfield concepts like Newcomer.
Newcomer Wines
Boxpark Shoreditch
2-10 Bethnal Green Road
London E1 6GY
+44 7447 512 061
www.newcomerwines.com
@austrianwinerev
Opening hours
Monday - Saturday 11am - 7pm
Thursday 11am - 8pm
Sunday 12pm - 6pm
For more of the best places to enjoy wine in London, download The London Wine Guide iPhone app.
10 wines worth trying
Whites
Christoph Edelbauer Grüner Veltliner 2012 (Kamptal, Austria, 12.5%; £11.90)
Green apple, citrus, fresh celery and cucumber. Medium-bodied with plenty of fruit and apply acidity on the palate. Classic stuff. 88 points, good value.
Groszer Wein ‘Germichter Satz’ 2013 (Südburgendland, Austria, 12.5%; £14.90 for 1l bottle)
Field blend of Welschriesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Muskateller, Pinot Blanc and Grüner Veltliner. Fresh and floral with white peach and satsuma on the nose. Soft and balanced with good freshness and lovely acidity. Very intense, surging finish and good length. 89 points, good value.
Erwin Poller 'Vom Loess' 2013 (Weinviertel, Austria, 12.5%; £14.90)
60% Sauvignon Blanc, 40% Muskateller. Softly perfumed nose, roses and lychees, but not in your face like Gewurz – more subtle than that. Soft and plump but nicely balanced acidity. Not hugely complex, but nicely judged – fruit and perfume in equal measure, nothing overdone. 88 points, fair value.
Ewald Zweytick ‘WB’ Weissburgunder 2012 (Südsteiermark, Austria, 13.0%; £14.90)
A ripe and rich style of Pinot Blanc, lots of apricot fruit dispersing from the glass, with a touch of fresh cream. Lovely texture, with good minerality and lively acidity keeping things tucked in. A very good example of Austrian Pinot Blanc, intense in flavour with good length. 90 points, good value.
Erwin Poller 'Ms Mayer' Grüner Veltliner 2012 (Weinviertel, Austria, 13.0%; £19.90)
Celery, white pepper and a touch of apricot on the nose. Medium to full-bodied with red apple fruit, a soft texture and a firm, dry mineral finish. Long, savoury, lots of intense extract and a lovely texture. Serious stuff behind a curious label, firm and balanced. 91 points, fair value.
Davis Weszeli 'Purus' Grüner Veltliner 2011 (Kamptal, Austria, 13.0%; £26.90)
Pure and clean nose, smells like pine needles. Lovely full body, intense and ripe. Bags of flavour, a very ripe style, just dry. Long and fruity. Waves of flavour. 92 points, fair value.
Clemens Strobl 'Fumberg' Riesling 2012 (Wagram, Austria, 13.0%; £29.90)
Incredibly floral, rose petals. Satsuma, honeysuckle and white pepper notes too. Full-bodied, very rich and just off dry. Alcohol is balanced. Like Gewürztraminer in style, but delicious, clean, rich and balanced. No botrytis apparently, just late picked. Acid perhaps just a little on the low side, but very characterful. Worth a premium for the bonkers bottle – wax capsule, the biggest punt I’ve ever seen and an etched ‘Acid smiley face goes on holiday’ motif. I’ll be calling the winemaker ‘Clemens Strobelighting’ from now onwards. 90 points, just about fair value.
Ewald Zweytick ‘Don’t Cry’ Sauvignon Blanc 2011 (Südsteiermark, Austria, 14.5%; £49.90)
One third new oak, 2 thirds used. Single vineyard. 1,000 bottles only. Winemaker is a massive Guns ‘n’ Roses fan, and names his wines after them. This is something else – immediately a compellingly interesting nose. Full-bodied and intense on the palate with a vibrant burst of flavour. Some aged characteristics; really interesting. Very mineral, very long and lots of texture to keep the mouth interested. Lemon, lime, lychee – clearly late picked. Unique and delicious, tasting this made my day. 93 points, just about fair value.
Reds
Claus Preisinger Zweigelt 2012 (Burgunland, Austria, 13.0%; £12.90)
Blueberry, raspberry, black cherry. Medium bodied, balanced alcohol, high acidity, but it's met along the way by powerful, juicy dark fruits. Quite long, not terribly complex, but intense and zingy without being overly acidic. A delicious, sensitively oaked and powerfully flavoured dynamic wine. Very good. 90 points, good value.
Christoph Edelbauer Pinot Noir 2011 (Langenlois, Niederosterreich, Austria, 13.0%; £29.90)
Fresh and vivid raspberry and wild strawberry. Some high toned black cherry, a hint of volatility. Some oak spicing - cinnamon. Light- to medium-bodied. High acidity, low in tannin, just a slight squeeze on finish. A sweet side to the fruit and a touch of cherry coke from the oak. Fairly long, slightly bitter finish. Pure, drinkable, if just a little touch of syrupiness to the fruit. 89 points, not great value.
First published on timatkin.com.
Tavel: Don’t judge a wine by its colour
A quick intro to the wines of Tavel...
Of all the colours of the rainbow, the colour pink has some unfortunate connotations. Often associated with cupcake icing and little girls’ toys, it’s a weak, frivolous colour. It’s rarely the sign of a serious wine either – how many truly great rosés can you name? Yes there are some, but compared to white and red wines they are few and far between.
Tavel, however, is something special. It’s a small appellation just over the river from Châteauneuf-du-Pape and uniquely for the Côtes-du-Rhône, this region only produces dry rosé. And there is no other rosé like it. Expect assertive red berry flavours, herbal undertones and an intense impression once in your mouth. It has the bright bite and cleansing sensation of a ripe redcurrant. It refreshes like the red flesh of a watermelon. It has the clean, mineral edge of neon pink coral.
Over a dozen different grape varieties can be included by the winemaker, but Grenache and Cinsault form the bulk of the blend. The vines need to be strong enough to push their way through the rounded stones that litter the vineyards. It makes for a muscular rosé – full-bodied and weighty, but light on its feet. It is the antidote to so many insipid, anaemic, wan pinks. It can easily stand up to flavoursome dishes like fish soup or grilled red snapper, and is a good all-rounder for tackling a Chinese takeaway.
Though it can be a brilliant wine, Tavel is often overlooked, and though not cheap it’s often undervalued for the heights of quality the best can attain. Like the eponymous American rockstar, this is a Pink that has talent and attitude. It proves that pink can be powerful.
Domaine Maby ‘Prima Donna’ Tavel Rosé 2012 (The Wine Society, £9.95)
Vibrant pinky red. Raspberry, strawberry, some red cherry aromas. Full-bodied, rounded with a silky texture. Intensely flavoursome, with great purity and freshness. Dry, textured finish.
Château d’Aqueria Tavel Rosé 2012 (winedirect.com, £13.75)
The colour of a ripe redcurrant. Fruity strawberry and redcurrant aromas. Medium to full-bodied for a rosé. Fresh, well balanced, with lovely fruitiness right into the long finish.
Domaine de la Mordorée 'La Dame Rousse' Tavel Rosé 2012 (Berry Brothers & Rudd, £16.95)
Deep rose petal pink. Cherry, raspberry, strawberry and tarragon on the nose. Round and smooth, with good concentration of flavour and a cleansing mineral finish. Well balanced, long and delicious.
First published in Living France magazine.
Chapoutier's class of 2013
If the majority of the press surrounding the 2013 vintage in Bordeaux is to be believed, most en primeur samples should have been gathered up, put in a sack and drowned in the Gironde like so many sickly, malformed kittens. Bordeaux is always the earliest serious wine style to land on the market, and the character of its vintage often imprints itself on the minds of drinkers as speaking for the entirety of France. But a disappointing vintage in Bordeaux can be exceptional elsewhere.
It’s around this time every year that Rhône ringmaster Michel Chapoutier travels the globe presenting the new vintage of his top single vineyard wines or Sélections Parcellaires as he calls them – on this occasion it’s the 2013s. His first stop is always London. He releases his wines a good six to twelve months before most other Rhône producers, so it provides a tantalising early glimpse of what we might expect from the vintage. It would appear that ‘13 isn’t unlucky for everyone.
Chapoutier owns around a third of the hill of Hermitage, and his top wines are often amongst the most profoundly delicious to be found in the Rhône. But this year his opening gambit felt like a veiled apology. “There are some vintages that are judged very highly when they when they are young,” he said, “and some that are judged more severely. When I was in school I always remember who was first in the class and who was last. If we would have decided at this time who will be a president and who will be a tramp, we would be wrong quite a lot of the time. It’s probably the same thing for wine.”
Compared to previous vintages, this line up did indeed feel relatively gawky and immature; there was acne and awkwardness. Young, unfinished wines are never easy to taste, but this selection was going through a particularly difficult phase. Underneath the dodgy haircuts and moodiness, however, some of the wines had real potential.
Exam conditions
The weather was infuriating in 2013. The winter was very wet. It was so cold in spring that vegetation was three to four weeks late to start. This led to coulure (when flowers fail to turn into grapes). Up to 35% of some of his plots in the north were affected, and, since Grenache is particularly susceptible, up to 80% of others in the south. This led to low yields. Chapoutier’s Châteauneufs are 100% Grenache, but since it is the major constituent in many producers’ blends, we are likely to see a good number of wines bulked out with Syrah and Mourvèdre this year, which will lead to some atypical wines.
Coulure wasn’t the last of Chapoutier’s problems. “After that, we had secondary buds... but these buds are not interesting. We were obliged to take off these second generation grapes. That was hard work.” Thankfully the weather picked up towards the end of the growing season. But the harvest was still very late, into October for some appellations, which was “what we were used to 25 years ago”. Fermentations were thankfully straightforward, and the wines are now quietly maturing in barrel.
The results
For Chapoutier “it was a vintage with a good level of acidity, with not a high level of alcohol. In certain terms in made me think of the vintage ’91.” Looking forward to how the wines will age, he said “there is large enough structure – it reminds me of ‘83”. In other words, the tannins could be “quite hard” and would take time to soften.
In producing a new vintage, Chapoutier described himself as a parent behind a child that is learning to ride a bicycle; he doesn’t hold the child, he just helps push it off then follows along behind. 2013 is off to a shaky start, but some of the class is showing unexpectedly strong characters – at least in the Northern Rhône. I’ll be visiting the region this summer and autumn for a full report on this unusual vintage.
The wines
All tasted at The Westbury Hotel, London, 31st April 2014. They were at a particularly difficult stage in their development, so scores are given in a range. I intend to retaste later in the year when the wines have had more time to develop.
2013 Chapoutier Saint-Joseph Blanc ‘Les Granits’ 2 ha, 100% Marsanne, very old vines south of Tournon grown on steep granite slopes. Flinty nose, with a touch of honey and white pepper. Full bodied, with balanced alcohol and acidity. Some appealing mango flavours, and medium in length. 90-92 points.
2013 Chapoutier Ermitage Blanc ‘Le Méal’ 2 ha, 100% Marsanne, 50+ year old vines on alluvial deposits and large stones. Deeper gold, with some struck match oak and celery on the nose. Michel’s note of “tomato leaf” aroma is spot on. Very full and rich, with tons of glycerol and body. Intense, and mineral. Good pure fruits on the finish and balanced acidity. Firm finish, with a touch of honey. Lacks a bit of thrust at present, but will no doubt take on bulk as it develops. Just 13.7% alcohol. 93-95 points.
2013 Chapoutier Ermitage Blanc ‘De L’Orée’ 3.5 ha, 100% Marsanne, from Les Murets. 70 year old vines on pebbles and sand. Uniform gold colour, with plenty of apricot and peach on the nose. Very full bodied, with a slow-moving opulence. Seems a little fat on the mid-palate, then its acidity, alcohol, and some classic Marsanne bitterness all come in on the finish to hold it up. Some marzipan on the long finish. 94-96 points.
2013 Chapoutier Ermitage Blanc ‘L’Ermite’ 0.5 ha, 100% Marsanne, 100+ year old vines on the top of the hill of Hermitage behind the chapel on granitic soils. Deep gold, with an assertive earthy nose. Very full bodied, very concentrated, with a firm mineral finish which holds the palate down. Keen, straight, very long. Great purity and intensity, with extraordinary length – it seems to block out your other senses when you taste it. Serious stuff. 96-98 points.
2013 Chapoutier Condrieu ‘Coteau de Chéry’ 100% Viognier, old vines grown on granitic soils and mica-schists. Lovely nose, with lifted and perfumed peach aromatics. Very full in body with just about balanced acidity. Rich, with some mineral glints on the finish. Lots of extract, and just a tiny bit of alcohol currently showing on the finish. Pure and long. 93-95 points.
2013 Chapoutier Châteauneuf-du-Pape ‘Croix de Bois’ 5 ha, 100% Grenache from Bédarrides, 45 year old vines grown on large pebbles and sandy red clay. A staggeringly low 9 hl/ha in 2013. Clear transparent ruby colour. Pure strawberry fruits and a hint of cocoa. Full, flowing and juicy; just a little hard on the savoury finish. Good acidity. A little lacking in charm, and not terribly long, but with an agreeable lightness of touch. 89-91 points.
2013 Chapoutier Châteauneuf-du-Pape ‘Barbe Rac’ 4 ha, 100% Grenache grown on galets over red clay and sand, 90 year old vines. Hilltop vineyard west of Châteauneuf. More fullness and intensity than the Croix de Bois. Fuller, riper and sweeter with a lovely smooth texture. Balanced acidity, decent length and pure, juicy strawberry and blackberry fruits. Darker fruits than the Croix de Bois, and better balanced. Some alcohol peeps through on the finish. 91-93 points.
2013 Chapoutier Crozes-Ermitage ‘Les Varonniers’ 3.2 ha, 100% Syrah, 60+ year old vines grown on granite slopes. Deeply coloured and full bodied. Slightly lacking in fragrance, and seems a little heavy. Tannins are quite unfriendly. Not showing well at present. 88-90? points.
2013 Chapoutier Saint-Joseph ‘Les Granits’ 2.5 ha, 100% Syrah, very old vines on stony granitic soil. Distinctly spicy, full bodied with ripe, full tannins and plenty of them. Good freshness and acidity, with juicy fruit and reasonably long. Forthright, fairly dry tannins. 91-93 points.
2013 Chapoutier Saint-Joseph ‘Le Clos’ <1 ha, 100% Syrah, 15 year old vines on granitic soil. Dense, deep and intense. Very full, with coating tannins but good freshness. Some lovely expressive peppery Rhône syrah fragrance on the nose, backed up by serious intensity on the palate. Very long, rich and ripe. 92-94 points.
2013 Chapoutier Côte-Rôtie ‘La Mordorée’ 3 ha, 100% Syrah, 70 year old vines on steep terraces of mica-schist in loess on the border of the Côte Blonde. Perfumed red fruits and liquorice. Good lift and purity of expression with some distinctly savoury black olive notes. Peppery. Nicely balanced, but tannins on the dry side. A bit clunky at the time of tasting, but time should help focus all the elements. 91-93 points.
2013 Chapoutier Ermitage ‘Les Greffieux’ 3.5 ha, 100% Syrah, 50 year old vines at the foot of the hill grown on alluvial deposits, shingle and clay. Olive, herb oils and smokiness on the nose. Savoury on the palate too, but laced with some ripe blackberry fruits. Mouth-coating, chunky, slightly grainy tannins and good acidity. Very full, intense and long. Very good, but slightly lacking in charm for now. 92-94 points.
2013 Chapoutier Ermitage ‘Le Méal’ 2.2 ha, 100% Syrah, 50+ year old vines on high terraces of shingle and clay. More intense fruitiness on the nose than the Greffieux, richer, with a vein of rosemary running through it. Full, smooth, lovely texture. Lots of blackberry and bacon fat. Long, intense, fresh and fine. 94-96 points.
2013 Chapoutier Ermitage ‘L’Ermite’ 3 ha, 100% Syrah, 80+ year old vines at the top of the hill around the chapel on loess over granite. Very closed, but all the elements are there swirling round like a whirlwind at night. Some lighter fragrance can be coaxed out along with crispy bacon and dark berry fruits. Full but not massive, but with layer upon layer of extract and a sharp, high toned spiciness. Very savoury on the palate, very long. Tannins coat the mouth, but young and raw still – a bit more time in oak will soften the edges. 96-98 points.
2013 Chapoutier Ermitage ‘Le Pavillon’ 4 ha, 100% Syrah, 65 year old vines on granite from Les Bessards. Dark, deep, inky, blackcurrant nose. Very full bodied, beautifully fine tannins here. Bright and fresh with a lovely texture. Long, pure and straight, wonderfully fruity and showing refreshingly low alcohol. Top of the class. 96-98 points.
First published on timatkin.com.
Gascogne: Of coops and co-ops
A quick intro to the wines of Gascogne...
The Côtes de Gascogne, south of Bordeaux, is a sprawling region. There are no main roads, so it’s easy to get lost; this really is La France profonde. Driving from one winery to the next, I reach for the music selection, dithering between Beethoven’s Pastoral Symphony and the soundtrack to Deliverance. Either would be fitting, especially if played on the accordion.
The hills roll like the uneven pastry lid of a homemade apple pie. There is a rich gastronomic tradition here: truffles, duck, foie gras. It can feel more like a season than a place, a fifth phase between summer and autumn. The traditional drink of choice is Armagnac, the flavoursome local brandy. Over the past few decades, however, sales have been declining, so many growers now divert their grapes into wine production instead. There is a smattering of small independent producers, but a handful of huge estates and co-operative wineries rule the roost.
They use a gaggle of white grape varieties, such as the rather plain old Armagnac grapes Colombard, Folle Blanche and Ugni Blanc; the flavoursome Gros Manseng and Petit Manseng; and the more recognisable Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. For the little red and rosé they produce, it’s usually Tannat alongside Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. For a refreshing aperitif, try local speciality Floc de Gascogne, a bottled blend of Armagnac and fresh grape juice. They make some good sweet wines too.
Grape vines prefer poor, infertile soils. This fecund corner of France makes for rather cosseted grapes, so don’t expect anything too grand or serious. Both whites and reds are light in style, low in alcohol, and best drunk as young as possible. The best offer thirst-quenching freshness and good value for money. If you’re looking for well-made, authentic wines for less than £10 a bottle, Côtes de Gascogne is a smart place to look.
La Chapelle Rouge 2012 (From Vineyards Direct, £7.65)
Black cherry and plum aromas. Light to medium-bodied with a gentle, soft texture and low alcohol. Simple stuff, but authentic and balanced.
Plaimont Producteurs ‘Grand Héron’ 2013 (Majestic, £7.99, or £6.79 for 2 at the time of writing)
Light to medium-bodied with fresh grapefruit and cut grass flavours. Zingy, balanced and thirst quenching. Like a leaner version of a Sauvignon Blanc.
Domaine de Pellehaut ‘Ampelomeryx’ 2011 (Booths, £9.39)
Zingy grapefruit aroma with a toasty edge. Concentrated, tangy citrus flavour that ends rich, full and rounded. Very drinkable, with a long lasting finish.
First published in Living France magazine.
Madeira quake
I always find it strange how fortified wines – Sherry, Port and Madeira – are so often portrayed as drinks for vicars and old ladies. The reality is these are drinks for hardcore hedonists. Not because they have (slightly) elevated levels of alcohol, but because the best possess an uncompromising intensity, a thrillingly unique spectrum of flavours and mind-bending levels of complexity. This is particularly true of madeira (madeira is a fortified wine from the Portuguese island of Madeira – a brief intro here). If I gave my ageing granny a glass of 1971 D’Oliveiras Sercial Madeira it would probably kill her. But what a way to go. It’s so good she might even thank me.
Due in part to its unfashionable image, the antiquated Madeira industry is dying. If sales continue at the current rate, this historic wine will be gone in little over 100 years. Only eight producers remain; between them, they now sell just 350,000 cases a year. But newcomer Paulo Mendes is doing the commercially unthinkable. He has established a new producer, Madeira Vintners. Thankfully he has some radical ideas that might help turn madeira’s fortunes around.
Tough beginnings
The wines of Madeira were the height of fashion 200 years ago, but the industry took a series of viticultural and commercial blows during the 19th and 20th centuries from which it has never really recovered. Decades of declining sales has led to a somewhat paranoid industry where newcomers are eyed with suspicion. Rather than working together, “people in Madeira look at their neighbour as their competitor” says Mendes. One rather curious law states that you must already have stocks of at least 120,000 litres of wine before you can register as a producer. Undaunted, Mendes produced his first vintage in 2012 by renting equipment from local government and friendly competitor Barbeito. Barbeito is the second youngest exporting producer after Madeira Vintners; it was founded in 1946. Things don’t change much around here.
Though born in Madeira, Mendes was previously an electrical engineer, then a business consultant based in the US. Wine is “the most difficult business I’ve seen by far” he says. When I met up with him last week I was expecting an idealistic dreamer, but Mendes is a sharp albeit good humoured businessman, which makes his venture all the more curious. “I always love a challenge,” he says with a grin. But he hasn’t tried selling any yet.
If Madeira is famous for anything, it’s the wine’s ability to age; the best are seemingly indestructible and can last for centuries. But being a brand new company, Madeira Vintners doesn’t have any older stocks. Theoretically it’s possible to buy aged wines from partidistas, companies that mature barrels of wine then sell it on to other traders (similar to Sherry almancenistas), but again, Mendes met with resistance. “I wrote to all of them, all of them without exception” he says, but not a single one would sell him any wine. He has no choice but to concentrate on younger wines. But it’s at this most basic level where he has discovered the potential for innovation and improvement.
Rough edges
Madeira’s commercial situation isn’t helped by the fact that many of the younger, more affordable, entry level wines can be vicious little acid bombs, offering all of the pain but none of the gain of the older wines. They can scare off curious drinkers before they reach the more exalted styles. Mendes is aiming to produce a more approachable and enjoyable wine whilst staying true to Madeira’s unique character. “We need wines that reflect madeira, but are more balanced” he says.
Less acidity means less residual sugar is needed to give the wines balance; 80% of Madeira is sweet, but often “the sugar is there to mask the acidity” he believes. By bringing down the levels of sugar and acidity he feels that in turn he can reduce the level of alcohol to 17% (the legal minimum), making the wines more approachable and drinkable, especially when young. He is also cutting down on the use of colour and sweeteners (widely used in the industry) with a view to removing them altogether.
He hopes that all this will equal an affordable but high quality entry-level Madeira that will be more appealing to younger drinkers. “The only way to go is to work hard and have a different approach. If I release a bad wine, I’m dead. I only have one shot. The first wines need to be above the current threshold – otherwise this is a stupid exercise.”
Raw materials
The global trend towards increased care in the vineyards and a lighter touch in the cellar has been slow to reach Madeira. Due to the concentration on aged wines and the heating and fortification processes, the focus has long been on the cellar, not the vineyard. Mendes believes that directing his efforts towards the quality of the grapes will be the key to creating his modern new style; “it will be a transformation” he enthusiastically asserts.
Grape production on the island lies in the hands of nearly 1,500 small growers rather than the big houses; few own vineyards themselves as the land is so expensive. The large houses buy grapes from hundreds of such growers, which makes quality control very difficult. “If you looked at the grapes, you wouldn’t be impressed” says Mendes. He claims Madeira Vintners is the only producer to use sorting tables, rejecting 5-10% of the crop on average. He also insists on small 30kg picking baskets and pressing on the day of harvest, both of which are uncommon on the island.
Instead of working with hundreds of growers, Madeira Vintners has long term contracts with fewer than 30. The so-called ‘noble varieties’ of Sercial, Verdelho, Bual and Malmsey “are in such short supply, you have to accept poor quality” says Mendes; but not so with Tinta Negra, which accounts for 90% of production. “We believe there is lots of potential in Tinta Negra,” he says. Different plots from individual producers are vinified one by one so growers can taste wines made from their own grapes. “The grape growers don’t get the recognition they deserve; we don’t talk about the growers, it feels like no-one cares about them.” Being able to taste their own wines, sometimes for the first time, inspires them to improve quality.
According to Mendes, grey rot (botrytis) is “by far the biggest problem in Madeira.” This means that growers pick early to avoid the threat of a ruined crop. They are also keen to pick early to be sure they can sell their grapes while there is still seasonal demand from the big houses. Early picking means high acidity. Mendes guarantees his growers that he will buy their entire production, so there is no rush to harvest. He hopes that this new viticultural approach will lead to higher quality fruit with lower levels of acidity – which will enable him to produce the new style of young madeira he is aiming for.
“I’m not suicidal”
After the legal minimum of three years ageing, Madeira Vintners’ first wines will be available for sale in early 2016. Their first releases will necessarily be the most basic category, 3 Year Old. At this point Mendes faces a new challenge; getting his wines to market and converting an indifferent public. His next job is finding an importer “who is brave enough to work with us.” But he’s convinced he’ll be successful: “You can call me crazy,” he says, “but I’m not suicidal.”
New producers don’t come along often on the island; considering the current state of the industry, Madeira Vintners might be the last. Rather than trying to exclude this radical newcomer, other local producers would do better to welcome him; he might be just what the industry needs to reverse its fortunes.
Digging Graves
A quick intro to Graves...
Every year, the two titans of Bordeaux – the Left Bank and Right Bank – lock swords in a battle for supremacy. Observing from the sidelines to the south is Graves, the gritty third wine region of Bordeaux, nonchalantly whittling a stick with its Swiss army knife. A less glamorous choice of blade for sure; but far more versatile.
Bordeaux is world-renowned for its reds. Fighting on this front, Graves would win many battles but it would lose the war. It has a secret weapon, however, in its white wines. Its dry whites are the best in Bordeaux, and can be more than a match for the best reds in cooler years. Its sweet whites, Sauternes and Barsac, are also stunningly good.
The Graves region stretches southeast from the city of Bordeaux alongside the Garonne River. Its reds stick to the Bordeaux blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc, but give leaner, earthier examples with notes of tobacco and charcoal. The whites are blends of Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon and Muscadelle. Oak ageing provides a spicy tang and added muscle, giving them a more powerful style compared to rival Sauvignons from the Loire.
Many of the best Graves reds and whites come from the sub-region of Pessac-Léognan. It begins in the suburbs of Bordeaux, but stretches south among fields and pine forests. It’s home to First Growth Château Haut-Brion, and its sister estate La Mission Haut-Brion. Year after year they duel for the title of Graves ‘Wine of the Vintage’. Big names like these come with a three-figure price tag, but thanks to its relatively low profile, Graves can also be a hunting ground for bargains. Value is a relative term in Bordeaux, but the three below all excel in their class.
Château des Gravières ‘Cuvée Prestige’ 2009 (WineTrust100, £13.00)
Juicy, ripe black berry fruits and a dry finish – 2009 was a great year in Bordeaux. Delivers a lot of pleasure for the price.
Clos Floridène Blanc 2011 (The Wine Society, £18.00)
From the estate of Professor Denis Dubourdieu, one of the most sought after oenologists in France. Aromas of lychee and citrus fruits followed up by a sappy, tangy, intense burst of flavour.
Domaine de Chevalier 2008 (Wine Rack, £55.99)
This is a classic, fruity but very savoury Pessac-Léognan from a stand-out estate. Lush and ripe with intense blackcurrant and charcoal flavour. It has a lovely balance between fruit and oak, with a long, fresh finish.
First published in Living France magazine.
Spend less, drink better
The UK is a nation of bargain hunters. There are more pound shops on Britain’s high streets than bookstores. When it comes to wine we’re no different; most of what we buy is on promotion. We may outwardly assert to the omniscient boffin on the Antiques Roadshow that of course we’d never sell great aunt Millie’s favourite elephant sculpture, it means far too much to us... but the cackling David Dickenson on our shoulder has already blown the proceeds on Bordeaux. And wouldn’t it taste even better if that claret was a jaw dropping, eye popping bargain?
Fat chance of that though; along with big name Champagne, top flight claret is rarely a steal. On promotion or not, most famous wine regions are generally best avoided if you’re looking for value. So what is the best way to get maximum bang for buck when shopping for wine? I asked a selection of professional wine buyers, the wine world’s equivalent of the Antiques Roadshow expert, for the inside track.
There are three strategies to bear in mind: explore undervalued or overperforming regions and styles; pay less; and make the wine taste better once you’ve bought it.
Undervalued regions
When quizzing the buyers on which areas to explore for excellent value wines, one country came up time and time again. “Spain is doing a cracking job” says Philippa Carr MW from Asda. Nick Room from Waitrose agrees, pointing towards Campo de Borja, Calatayud and Jumilla in particular, whereas Jason Millar from London independent Theatre of Wine praises “all that old vine Monastrell from the south... convincing wines that have an awful lot to offer for not much money.” Portugal is also singled out for praise by all three, variously citing Alentejo, Lisboa and Vinho Verde as regions or styles to watch.
Southern Italy, particularly Sicily, is suggested as a good hunting ground. Central and Eastern Europe are also put forward; Carr suggests Slovenia and Croatia, and Millar backs Bulgaria: “a country for us that is producing very good wines at very reasonable prices.” Others to add to the list are South America, Greece and Southern France. Simon Cairns at The Cooperative suggests a mixed bunch including the following: Picpoul de Pinet, Lirac, Barbaresco, Carmenère, Tasmanian sparkling and South American Cabernet Franc.
Susan McCraith MW who consults to Bargain Booze and Wine Rack advises a more general tactic. “Look for satellite areas of better known appellations,” she says, “if you like Sancerre, look for a Quincy.” Millar suggests revisiting regions that are currently unfashionable. Pierre Mansour at The Wine Society concurs, pointing at Sherry: “it’s ridiculous value... the complexity you get for the price.”
For good value in sparkling wine, Mansour recommends Cava over Prosecco. “It’s regarded as cheap and cheerful, but as a Champagne-style alternative, Cava is super value. Prosecco is an altogether simpler wine.” Looking for value further up the price range “it’s all those areas that don’t have a brand identity for fine wine” he says, suggesting Spain, South Africa, the Rhône and Australia: “once you start moving up above £15 a bottle in Australia, the fine wines you can buy at that price point are exceptionally good value... I think it’s a bit of a blind spot.” For sweet wines, Nick Room suggests looking to the New World rather than classic names such as Sauternes.
Millar sums up the overall strategy succinctly: “be bolder, be adventurous.” If you stick to reliable retailers, you should at least avoid poor quality – you may occasionally end up with something unusual, but that’s all part of the fun.
Buy smarter
Another route to good value is simply to pay less money for the wine you buy. Most retailers, such as London independent Lea & Sandeman, offer discounts and free delivery on mixed cases. “If someone’s regularly coming in and ordering large volumes, we’re willing to talk to them [about discounts]... Pay cash and smile, and you never know, we may throw in another bottle” says director Charles Lea. It’s always worth haggling if you’re buying in bulk.
Don’t forget to use price comparison websites such as wine-searcher.com to ensure you’re getting the lowest prices, particularly with more expensive wines. Some independents offer the option of buying certain fine wines en primeur (i.e. paying up front before the wine is bottled and receiving your wine a year or two later), which can be cheaper than waiting to buy the wine in bottle (though not always, especially in the case of Bordeaux).
What about buying on promotion? Promotional deals can appear to be a short cut to value, but the public is catching on that some promotions are a con. It’s difficult to generalise, but as a rule it’s the ‘high/low’ supermarket promotions that should be avoided. If it’s too good to be true (50% off for example) it probably is i.e. the ‘discounted’ low price is the wine’s true value; the ‘original’ higher price is artificially inflated. Independent merchants and online specialists are less likely to play this game. Promotions remain an effective way of managing stocks however, so ‘bin end’ discounts and the like shouldn’t be passed over, and can offer genuine savings.
When buying from supermarkets, a better option is to consider the top rung of their own-label ranges. Carr from Asda explains they are less likely to be promoted using such price mechanics, but instead by using medals won at competitions or quoting critics’ endorsements. Don’t forget to factor in the time and expense it takes to visit physical stores; if the experience isn’t a pleasure, buy online and get it delivered instead. If you’re happy shopping online, consider joining The Wine Society. Lifetime membership costs £40, but the prices tend to be lower than the competition thanks to their co-operative business model.
A number of buyers recommend spending more money per bottle to get better value... and they do have a point. The fixed costs made up of tax, packaging and transport mean that once you get to a certain price level, quality increases rapidly. At the national average of just over a fiver per bottle, very little of your money is actually going on wine. McCraith explains “because of duty, it’s worth spending and extra pound or two, and buying wines over £7 or £8 because you’re getting a lot more value for your money.”
Optimise flavour
So you’ve bought some overperforming wines at the best possible price. But it doesn’t stop here: there’s more you can do to get optimum pleasure out of your bottle. Start by putting your reds in the fridge for 15 minutes before you drink them. It makes the flavours more defined, the alcohol less noticeable and the wine more refreshing. Conversely, whites are best brought out of the fridge 10 minutes before you drink them.
Another cost-free method that can make a huge difference to flavour is aeration; contact with air reanimates the aromas. Swirl it in the glass and suck air through the wine when it’s in your mouth. If it’s young or full-bodied, decant it for a couple of hours to wake it up before drinking.
There is a host of wine accessories on the market, but first and foremost invest in some decent glassware. Daniel Primack of wine accessories specialist Around Wine agrees “most of all, a wine glass of ideal shape and size will greatly enhance the flavour of the wine you’re drinking.” Riedel make over 100 different types of wine glass, but in my experience five types of glass cover most eventualities: two for reds (one for medium-bodied, aromatic reds; one for full-bodied, tannic reds); two for whites (one for fresh, aromatic whites; one for full, rich whites); and one for sparkling wines (not the classic Champagne flute – something wider is more effective).
Many of us buy wine to drink with food, in which case it makes sense to learn the basics of food and wine matching. Even if you bag a brilliant sweet Riesling for pennies, if you drink it with a chargrilled steak you won’t be getting the most out of it. And, if you can, share your wine with someone that cares as much about wine as you do, you’ll both enjoy it all the more.
Most wines are designed to be drunk young, but the more you spend over the £10 mark, the more likely it is that you can increase your drinking pleasure by pulling the cork at the right time in the wine’s life cycle. Lea’s somewhat impractical (yet nonetheless valid) advice is “buy a house with a cellar... it’s cheaper than getting it stored professionally.” All wines are different, but most reds, Champagnes and top-end whites will benefit from a few years in the bottle; for others a decade or two would be even better. Investing in a wine fridge, a cellar or an account with a wine storage facility might be an undertaking for the more dedicated winelover, but it repays with hugely increased drinking pleasure.
Sharpen your tongue
Any of these three strategies should help you get better value for money; exploring undervalued regions, getting the best possible price, and tweaking when and how you drink it. If you can combine all three, then so much the better. There are a couple of other approaches that will help you get even more enjoyment from every bottle, and they cost nothing.
If there’s one mouthful of wine that is worth more than any other, surely it’s the first sip; you stop, pay attention and really listen to what it’s saying. As you work your way down the bottle, remember to stop every now and again and really taste like it’s the first mouthful again.
Finally, beware of expectations. Even if it’s an inexpensive wine, give it your full attention; search for the detail, and listen carefully. Plenty of wines that are famous now were cheap before the world caught on. Price does not always equate to quality, so taste every wine as if it’s Pétrus; you never know what you might find.
Ten great value wines
2011 Aldi ‘Minarete’ Ribera del Duero (Spain; 13.5%)
£5.49, Aldi
Dark brambly fruits and a touch of dark chocolate and some crème de mure. Some oaky, woody hints underneath. Full-bodied, rounded and fleshy, with a slick of ripe tannin that outstays its welcome just a touch on the finish. But otherwise well balanced and savoury, very drinkable. Not terribly easy to place as a Ribera, but nonetheless a well made wine. 87 points, very good value.
2012 Paseo White (Lisboa, Portugal; 12.5%)
£5.75, Oddbins
A blend of Arinto, Fernão Pires, Chardonnay and Moscatel. Very pale, with a light attractive perfume. White flowers and a touch of apricot. Light to medium-bodied, fresh, clean. Light to start with, but then has good concentration of flavour, medium length, and quite a firm finish. Not terribly characterful, but harmonious, drinkable and enjoyable. Quaffable, refreshing and very well balanced. 87 points, very good value.
2011 Asda ‘Extra Special’ Dão (Portugal; 13%)
£6.00, Asda
Bright and spicy nose with crispy bacon and blackberry fruits. Medium-bodied, good acidity, balanced alcohol and lots of clean juicy berry fruit flavour. Medium length, nicely balanced, thirst quenching stuff. Authentic and satisfying. 88 points, very good value.
2013 La Guardiense ‘Janare’ Falanghina del Sannio (Campania, Italy; 13.5% ABV)
£6.95, The Wine Society
Fairly quiet peach and ripe apricot nose, with some almond and fennel too. Full-bodied for a white, good concentration, full, firm, grippy finish with a touch of tannin - powerful stuff for something so fruity and fresh. Quite oily in texture. Nectarines on the finish. Very drinkable, well balanced, medium length. 88 points, very good value.
NV Gonzalez Byass ‘Leonor’ 12 year old Palo Cortado Sherry NV (Spain; 20% ABV)
£11.45, The Whisky Exchange
Pale sandy brown. Dates, figs, sultanas and currants. A touch of furniture polish, honeycomb and treacle. It has a really complex nose. Dry, savoury, and intensely flavoursome. Long, nicely balanced and fresh. A touch of caramel and toffee on the finish. Medium to full-bodied, very concentrated, deliciously drinkable. Incredibly complex for a wine priced at this level. We’re surely living in the golden age of absurdly cheap Sherry, it deserves to be twice the quoted price of £11.45. 92 points, very good value.
2009 Château Pech La Calévie Monbazillac (France; 14.5% ABV)
£11.95, The Wine Society
Gold coloured sweet wine with powerful aromatics of noble rot, bananas and ripe honeydew melon. Add to that fresh mushrooms, dried mango, apricot and turmeric. Full-bodied but balanced by precise acidity and intense concentration of flavour. Luscious, thick texture, honeyed sweetness but with a fresh, zingy finish. Utterly delicious, concentrated, long and balanced – punches well above its weight. 91 points, very good value.
2012 Concha y Toro ‘Marques de Casa Concha’ Chardonnay (Limarí, Chile; 14% ABV)
£12.95, winedirect.co.uk
Intense, lively, rich and fruity nose (pineapple). Medium-bodied, fresh, very pure. Lovely acidity and lift with a long, fruity, powerful, intensely mineral finish. Balanced use of oak, very long, well balanced. Impressive stuff. Limarí is one of the most exciting and underpriced regions for Chardonnay in the world and Concha y Toro is leading the pack. 93 points, very good value.
NV Nautilus ‘Cuvée Marlborough’ Brut (New Zealand; 12.0% ABV)
£14.95, winedirect.co.uk
70% Pinot Noir, 30% Chardonnay, bottle fermented. Apple, apricot and sweet pastry on the nose. Slightly nutty (almonds). Mouth-filling soft fizz. Juicy acidity. Good length, tangy finish. Clearly a touch warmer in climate than Champagne. Long, spicy, honeyed, toasty finish. Fruity, rich and delicious. Really makes an impression - fairly quiet on the nose, but bags of flavour, good balance and real complexity. Every sip is rewarding. The best sparkling I've tasted from New Zealand in a long time. 93 points, very good value.
2012 Vincent Paris ‘La Geynale’ Cornas (Rhône, France; 14% ABV)
£34.80, Jeroboams
Saturated dark purple colour. Like some kind of olfactory black hole, it seems to be sucking smell in rather than giving it out. Some perceptible plum, damson, and blackberry fruits can be coaxed out, and some shoe polish aromas. Enormous and unforgiving in the mouth. It seems to move your mouth rather than the other way round. Extremely intense, packed with ripe tannin, dark matter and flavour. Hard to believe it's made of grapes. All balanced though and savoury, with no excess sweetness, alcohol or oak. This is something else. Buy, then wait. The best value red in my 2012 Rhône Report. 96 points, very good value.
1968 D’Oliveras Boal Madeira (Portugal; 20% ABV)
£110, Fortnum & Mason
Brown like a dried date in the middle, with a yellowy-green edge. Incredibly complex nose of soy, plum sauce, walnuts, brown bread, old wood and leather-bound books. Medium sweet, incredibly intense but light, bright and dynamic in the mouth. Rolling waves of flavour carried along by a beam of acidity. Juicy and succulent like a plump sultana. Incredibly long, perfectly balanced, clear, focussed and majestic. The added value bonus of Madeira is that once opened it doesn’t go off like normal wine, you can keep it corked and take occasional sips, like a whisky. I asked the importer Geoff Bovey if Madeira got much better: “the ’22 Boal is in another league, another universe!” Hard to imagine: I’m saving up already. 98 points, very good value.
First published on timatkin.com.