Domaine des Tours
Still deep in colour, though turning towards a foxy colour. Plum and strawberry, a touch of sweet decay. Touch of tobacco, a little wet bonfire and date. There's a definite sweetness to the strawberry fruit, some sweet alcohol, a touch of liquorice on the finish. Remarkably good acidity, and still very drinkable, good fruit. Not the most complex or harmonious, it doesn't blow you away, but my god it's fascinating for a 15-year-old IGP Merlot from the Rhône.
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Domaine Georges Vernay
Dense purple. Lifted, fresh, spicy aromas, blackberry fruits shot through with violet. Light- to medium-bodied, deliciously concentrated fruits but very light in style, very drinkable and fresh. Essentially it’s an extremely vibrant, bright and drinkable expression of Joven Rhône Syrah that’s hard to get enough of. No rotundone to speak of in this vintage. Doesn’t quite have the detail and high-toned freshness of the 2016, but it has more depth of fruit and concentration, despite the lack of pepperiness.
Jean-Luc Colombo
Medium gold colour, quite deeply coloured. Vanilla, peach, apricot and cashew aromas, the fruit is ripe and the oak gives interest and spice. Full-bodied, rich, flowing, but with balanced acidity and good depth of fruit. Touch of flat peach and cream soda on the finish. The acidity is the thing that keeps it vital and drinkable. ‘Naughty but nice’ as the cream cake adverts used to say.
Daterra Viticultores
80-120 year-old-vines, hand harvested, no fining or filtration, minimum sulphur use. Field blend of Mouraton, Mencía, Garnacha Tintorera, Marenzao, Gran Negro, Dona Blanca, Colgadeira and Godello. Winemaker Laura Lorenzo was the winemaker and viticulturist at Dominio do Bibei for close to a decade. Searching blueberry and blackberry, the aromas are precise and vital. There’s a touch of reduction, but it’s a feature, not a fault. It’s perfumed. There are green fruits as well as red and black, like gooseberry. The aromas are like descending steps into a still, dark pool. But on the tongue, there’s energy, sap and salinity, sublime freshness, wonderful drinkability and a defined mineral edge. A quietly brilliant, entirely unshowy wine, relaxed in its own skin and not trying to be anything it’s not.
La Roche Buissière
Organic since 1980, 300 to 450m altitude. No sulphur except at bottling, and even then, very low. So unsurprisingly it’s lightly reductive, but not so much to detract from the wine. Juicy blackberry and loganberry, with juicy acidity and blackberry-hide tannins. A vibrant blast of juicy, authentic berry fruits, and plenty of structure. Not the most refined, but deliciously drinkable. Just super-fresh, lively and grippy berry fruits, really satisfying.
Domaine des Carabiniers
Grenache, Cinsault, Clairette, Syrah. Fairly deep pink but far from dark. Aromatics range across redcurrant and blood orange with a herbal background. Medium-bodied with an assertive feel in the mouth; dry, firm acidity, and plenty of fairly savoury fruit flavour. Medium length. Thoroughly drinkable, very well balanced, a considered and serious wine.