Château des Tours
Very pale colour. Pure English strawberry and sage. Medium- to full-bodied, vibrant pinpoint acidity. Very herbal in style: rosemary, thyme. Dry finish, herbal and resinous, very savoury, not long. Very drinkable, with a slight mineral seam.
Le Vieux Donjon
Lovely harmonious nose, detailed berry fruits and an underlying dry herbal element. Medium to full body, bright acidity and agreeably dense, but finely fibrous tannins. Mineral edge brings balance and length. Very well balanced, almost unassuming in a way, but deeply authentic, savoury and - crucially - a highly drinkable style of Chateauneuf that will age with interest.
St Jean du Barroux
Lavender, plum, damson, all lifted by a jot of VA. Full-bodied, mouthcoating fruit and fine, but muscular, tannins. Very long indeed. The finish is gently warming but the fruit is very fresh, and it's nonetheless delicious.
Domaine Solence
Red apple, gently floral, with a touch of cookie dough. Medium-bodied, acidity is balanced, nicely judged. Generous in body but not overly full, well balanced. Aromatically not the most expressive or defined, but has good energy and an enjoyably textural mouthfeel. Drinkable, enjoyable.
Tanners
Made by the Gonnet family of Font de Michelle in Châteauneuf. Appealing bright raspberry fruits, some herbal detail. Medium-bodied, juicy Grenache fruit with good acidity. Lively and well balanced Côtes-du-Rhône with good typicity. Gentle wet-clay tannins on the finish. Juicy and easy to drink.
Domaine Georges Vernay
Dense purple. Lifted, fresh, spicy aromas, blackberry fruits shot through with violet. Light- to medium-bodied, deliciously concentrated fruits but very light in style, very drinkable and fresh. Essentially it’s an extremely vibrant, bright and drinkable expression of Joven Rhône Syrah that’s hard to get enough of. No rotundone to speak of in this vintage. Doesn’t quite have the detail and high-toned freshness of the 2016, but it has more depth of fruit and concentration, despite the lack of pepperiness.
Jean-Luc Colombo
Medium gold colour, quite deeply coloured. Vanilla, peach, apricot and cashew aromas, the fruit is ripe and the oak gives interest and spice. Full-bodied, rich, flowing, but with balanced acidity and good depth of fruit. Touch of flat peach and cream soda on the finish. The acidity is the thing that keeps it vital and drinkable. ‘Naughty but nice’ as the cream cake adverts used to say.
Domaine des Anges
Raspberry, raspberry leaf and a touch of cherry, some savoury elements among the fruit. Light- to medium-bodied, lively, with good acidity and brisk, snappy tannins. Not terribly long or complex, but it’s refreshing and drinkable. Balanced, dry finish – good mid-week drinking. They’ve been easy on the extraction, which was a wise move.
Daterra Viticultores
80-120 year-old-vines, hand harvested, no fining or filtration, minimum sulphur use. Field blend of Mouraton, Mencía, Garnacha Tintorera, Marenzao, Gran Negro, Dona Blanca, Colgadeira and Godello. Winemaker Laura Lorenzo was the winemaker and viticulturist at Dominio do Bibei for close to a decade. Searching blueberry and blackberry, the aromas are precise and vital. There’s a touch of reduction, but it’s a feature, not a fault. It’s perfumed. There are green fruits as well as red and black, like gooseberry. The aromas are like descending steps into a still, dark pool. But on the tongue, there’s energy, sap and salinity, sublime freshness, wonderful drinkability and a defined mineral edge. A quietly brilliant, entirely unshowy wine, relaxed in its own skin and not trying to be anything it’s not.