Domaine des Tours
Current vintage ex-domaine in late 2018. Taking on a uniform pale, copper-gold colour. Linden, subtle pear skin scent. Full-bodied, with some internal sweetness of fruit and honey flavour, ending dry, mineral, with some aniseed. Fairly long, very well-balanced with a firm acid line. Really interesting wine, classic Rhône Clairette, more one to intrigue than one to love. Absurdly good value at less than £15.
Olivier et Lafond
Five-year-old négociant business, a partnership between two winemaking consultants. Violets and plum fruit on the nose, good sense of ripeness, almost sweet core to the fruit. A little on the heady side, alcohol is a little high. Good, fairly straightforward style with discernible Gigondas character.
Olivier et Lafond
Five-year-old négociant business, a partnership between two winemaking consultants. Medium-bodied, with fairly intense acidity, well tapered, with warming alcohol on the finish. Fine, soft tannins - a little loose in structure. Good intensity, but a little heavy - alcohol a little too high for comfort. Elegant, but not the most complex.
Olivier et Lafond
Five-year-old négociant business, a partnership between two winemaking consultants. Victoria plum with some darker, brambly fruit. Medium-bodied, pretty powerful acidity and tight tannins - a structured Côtes-du-Rhône with warming alcohol on the finish. Good breadth of juicy, ripe fruit on the mid-palate. Good concentration.
Olivier et Lafond
Five-year-old negociant business, a partnership between two winemaking consultants. Pale in colour. Very much pear in aroma, touch of pear drop, fairly straightforward nose. Fairly full-bodied, broad and flowing, with adequate acidity and a phenolic aspect. Dry, voluptuous on the mid-palate, really came into its own with food. Nicely done - good concentration, slightly warming alcohol. Fairly long, quite textural style - soft and silky.
Domaine Stéphane Ogier
Deeply coloured but fairly subtle in aroma, with raspberry, fresh blackberry and a touch of graphite or coal dust. Light- to medium-bodied, with fairly marked acidity and very fine, gently grippy tannins. The fruit is ripe, but quite discrete, with the acidity being more prominent. Fine, tapered finish. Very much the northern extreme of Saint-Joseph in style, in a fresh vintage like 2016, so don't expect rich, deep fruits. Refreshing and drinkable, authentic and poised.
Château des Tours
Needs a brief decant, but then has intense honey aromas, beeswax. Followed up by honey flavour and some grapefruit marmalade, leading to a very dry, mineral, pithy finish with a bitter twist. Very distinctive, very grown-up. The most Old World wine imaginable.
Château des Tours
Slightly cloudy ruby. Sandalwood, cedar, red cherry and strawberry. Touch of raspberry and raspberry leaf. Full-bodied, but only just, with lovely Provençale herbs and bright acidity on the finish. Not long, touch of pepper on the finish. The Rayas winemaking touch is clearly there. Touch of fine tannin, but not much. Lovely harmonious, fairly well-balanced style, with some complexity of expression.
Domaine des Tours
Still deep in colour, though turning towards a foxy colour. Plum and strawberry, a touch of sweet decay. Touch of tobacco, a little wet bonfire and date. There's a definite sweetness to the strawberry fruit, some sweet alcohol, a touch of liquorice on the finish. Remarkably good acidity, and still very drinkable, good fruit. Not the most complex or harmonious, it doesn't blow you away, but my god it's fascinating for a 15-year-old IGP Merlot from the Rhône.
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Domaine des Tours
Remarkably pale, not far off a rosé. Pure red cherry fragrance, English strawberry, sage. Light- to medium-bodied, good acidity, dry finish, very dry in fact, savoury and slightly herbal. Gentle sucrosité to the fruit, not terribly intense, quite short, but at least authentic and true to the region and producer. Basic stuff, but enough interest to make it worthwhile.