Olivier et Lafond
Five-year-old negociant business, a partnership between two winemaking consultants. Pale in colour. Very much pear in aroma, touch of pear drop, fairly straightforward nose. Fairly full-bodied, broad and flowing, with adequate acidity and a phenolic aspect. Dry, voluptuous on the mid-palate, really came into its own with food. Nicely done - good concentration, slightly warming alcohol. Fairly long, quite textural style - soft and silky.
Château des Tours
Needs a brief decant, but then has intense honey aromas, beeswax. Followed up by honey flavour and some grapefruit marmalade, leading to a very dry, mineral, pithy finish with a bitter twist. Very distinctive, very grown-up. The most Old World wine imaginable.
Domaine Solence
Red apple, gently floral, with a touch of cookie dough. Medium-bodied, acidity is balanced, nicely judged. Generous in body but not overly full, well balanced. Aromatically not the most expressive or defined, but has good energy and an enjoyably textural mouthfeel. Drinkable, enjoyable.
Jean-Luc Colombo
Medium gold colour, quite deeply coloured. Vanilla, peach, apricot and cashew aromas, the fruit is ripe and the oak gives interest and spice. Full-bodied, rich, flowing, but with balanced acidity and good depth of fruit. Touch of flat peach and cream soda on the finish. The acidity is the thing that keeps it vital and drinkable. ‘Naughty but nice’ as the cream cake adverts used to say.
Vilmart et Cie
Disgorged December 2016. 55-year-old vines, family owned since 1890. 10 months in 228l oak barrels, no malo. Subtle nose, white flower and almond. Touch of confit lemon. Fresh, lively, intensely wound and coiled in flavour, but light and drinkable. Distinct mineral seam. Balance, harmony and finesse. Will age beautifully. Deep seated acidity. Saline finish.
Vilmart et Cie
Disgorged June 2017. 45-year-old vines, family owned since 1890. 10 months in 228l oak barrels, no malo. Vanilla-flecked apple compote on the nose, very fresh. A fairly light, direct, precise style, with lovely fresh mineral sheen on the palate. A wine of great elegance and class, stylish, sophisticated, harmonious and satisfying. Very drinkable. Impressive.
Mas de Cynanque
Honeyed and nutty on the nose but with bright freshness. Cheeky touch of toasted hazelnut. Full bodied, low acidity but balanced with minerality and bitterness. Medium length, very well balanced, which is quite a feat. Dry, grippy finish.