Domaine Stéphane Ogier
Deeply coloured but fairly subtle in aroma, with raspberry, fresh blackberry and a touch of graphite or coal dust. Light- to medium-bodied, with fairly marked acidity and very fine, gently grippy tannins. The fruit is ripe, but quite discrete, with the acidity being more prominent. Fine, tapered finish. Very much the northern extreme of Saint-Joseph in style, in a fresh vintage like 2016, so don't expect rich, deep fruits. Refreshing and drinkable, authentic and poised.
Le Vieux Donjon
Lovely harmonious nose, detailed berry fruits and an underlying dry herbal element. Medium to full body, bright acidity and agreeably dense, but finely fibrous tannins. Mineral edge brings balance and length. Very well balanced, almost unassuming in a way, but deeply authentic, savoury and - crucially - a highly drinkable style of Chateauneuf that will age with interest.
Domaine Solence
Red apple, gently floral, with a touch of cookie dough. Medium-bodied, acidity is balanced, nicely judged. Generous in body but not overly full, well balanced. Aromatically not the most expressive or defined, but has good energy and an enjoyably textural mouthfeel. Drinkable, enjoyable.
Tanners
Made by the Gonnet family of Font de Michelle in Châteauneuf. Appealing bright raspberry fruits, some herbal detail. Medium-bodied, juicy Grenache fruit with good acidity. Lively and well balanced Côtes-du-Rhône with good typicity. Gentle wet-clay tannins on the finish. Juicy and easy to drink.
Domaine Georges Vernay
Dense purple. Lifted, fresh, spicy aromas, blackberry fruits shot through with violet. Light- to medium-bodied, deliciously concentrated fruits but very light in style, very drinkable and fresh. Essentially it’s an extremely vibrant, bright and drinkable expression of Joven Rhône Syrah that’s hard to get enough of. No rotundone to speak of in this vintage. Doesn’t quite have the detail and high-toned freshness of the 2016, but it has more depth of fruit and concentration, despite the lack of pepperiness.
Daterra Viticultores
80-120 year-old-vines, hand harvested, no fining or filtration, minimum sulphur use. Field blend of Mouraton, Mencía, Garnacha Tintorera, Marenzao, Gran Negro, Dona Blanca, Colgadeira and Godello. Winemaker Laura Lorenzo was the winemaker and viticulturist at Dominio do Bibei for close to a decade. Searching blueberry and blackberry, the aromas are precise and vital. There’s a touch of reduction, but it’s a feature, not a fault. It’s perfumed. There are green fruits as well as red and black, like gooseberry. The aromas are like descending steps into a still, dark pool. But on the tongue, there’s energy, sap and salinity, sublime freshness, wonderful drinkability and a defined mineral edge. A quietly brilliant, entirely unshowy wine, relaxed in its own skin and not trying to be anything it’s not.
Mount Langi Ghiran
Very dense and closed at the time of tasting, but already starting to show some lifted floral notes among the ripe blueberry. Medium to full bodied, exceptionally smooth on the palate, with very ripe, smooth, velvet tannins. Long, but still closed on the palate. A wine of great purity, than reminds me somehow of a Syrah version of Secret de Sabon. Exceptionally pure and polished, but needs time to prove itself.
Domaine des Carabiniers
Grenache, Cinsault, Clairette, Syrah. Fairly deep pink but far from dark. Aromatics range across redcurrant and blood orange with a herbal background. Medium-bodied with an assertive feel in the mouth; dry, firm acidity, and plenty of fairly savoury fruit flavour. Medium length. Thoroughly drinkable, very well balanced, a considered and serious wine.