Château des Tours
Needs a brief decant, but then has intense honey aromas, beeswax. Followed up by honey flavour and some grapefruit marmalade, leading to a very dry, mineral, pithy finish with a bitter twist. Very distinctive, very grown-up. The most Old World wine imaginable.
Le Vieux Donjon
Lovely harmonious nose, detailed berry fruits and an underlying dry herbal element. Medium to full body, bright acidity and agreeably dense, but finely fibrous tannins. Mineral edge brings balance and length. Very well balanced, almost unassuming in a way, but deeply authentic, savoury and - crucially - a highly drinkable style of Chateauneuf that will age with interest.
St Jean du Barroux
Lavender, plum, damson, all lifted by a jot of VA. Full-bodied, mouthcoating fruit and fine, but muscular, tannins. Very long indeed. The finish is gently warming but the fruit is very fresh, and it's nonetheless delicious.
Mount Langi Ghiran
Very dense and closed at the time of tasting, but already starting to show some lifted floral notes among the ripe blueberry. Medium to full bodied, exceptionally smooth on the palate, with very ripe, smooth, velvet tannins. Long, but still closed on the palate. A wine of great purity, than reminds me somehow of a Syrah version of Secret de Sabon. Exceptionally pure and polished, but needs time to prove itself.
Vilmart et Cie
Disgorged December 2016. 55-year-old vines, family owned since 1890. 10 months in 228l oak barrels, no malo. Subtle nose, white flower and almond. Touch of confit lemon. Fresh, lively, intensely wound and coiled in flavour, but light and drinkable. Distinct mineral seam. Balance, harmony and finesse. Will age beautifully. Deep seated acidity. Saline finish.