Olivier et Lafond

Five-year-old negociant business, a partnership between two winemaking consultants. Good freshness on the nose. Straighter on the palate than the 2017, not so broad. Keener, more focused. Similar phenolic style, still generous, just neater. Deliciously textural, food-friendly style of Côtes-du-Rhône Blanc.


Olivier et Lafond

Five-year-old negociant business, a partnership between two winemaking consultants. Pale in colour. Very much pear in aroma, touch of pear drop, fairly straightforward nose. Fairly full-bodied, broad and flowing, with adequate acidity and a phenolic aspect. Dry, voluptuous on the mid-palate, really came into its own with food. Nicely done - good concentration, slightly warming alcohol. Fairly long, quite textural style - soft and silky.


Domaine Gourt de Mautens

Already aromatically open and expressive, with black pepper and juniper married with liquorice, raspberry, plum and garrigue herbs. It's full-bodied, but so lively and expressive, with keen, firm acidity, a fairly grand tannic structure and a powerful, grippy finish. Long, powerful, assertive. Very well-balanced, very fine in tannin and structure, powerful and vibrant. The alcohol is of course towards the punchy, but it doesn't taste unbalanced. Just outrageously good.


Domaine Stéphane Ogier

Deeply coloured but fairly subtle in aroma, with raspberry, fresh blackberry and a touch of graphite or coal dust. Light- to medium-bodied, with fairly marked acidity and very fine, gently grippy tannins. The fruit is ripe, but quite discrete, with the acidity being more prominent. Fine, tapered finish. Very much the northern extreme of Saint-Joseph in style, in a fresh vintage like 2016, so don't expect rich, deep fruits. Refreshing and drinkable, authentic and poised.


Château des Tours

Needs a brief decant, but then has intense honey aromas, beeswax. Followed up by honey flavour and some grapefruit marmalade, leading to a very dry, mineral, pithy finish with a bitter twist. Very distinctive, very grown-up. The most Old World wine imaginable.


Château des Tours

Slightly cloudy ruby. Sandalwood, cedar, red cherry and strawberry. Touch of raspberry and raspberry leaf. Full-bodied, but only just, with lovely Provençale herbs and bright acidity on the finish. Not long, touch of pepper on the finish. The Rayas winemaking touch is clearly there. Touch of fine tannin, but not much. Lovely harmonious, fairly well-balanced style, with some complexity of expression.


Domaine des Tours

Still deep in colour, though turning towards a foxy colour. Plum and strawberry, a touch of sweet decay. Touch of tobacco, a little wet bonfire and date. There's a definite sweetness to the strawberry fruit, some sweet alcohol, a touch of liquorice on the finish. Remarkably good acidity, and still very drinkable, good fruit. Not the most complex or harmonious, it doesn't blow you away, but my god it's fascinating for a 15-year-old IGP Merlot from the Rhône.

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Domaine des Tours

Remarkably pale, not far off a rosé. Pure red cherry fragrance, English strawberry, sage. Light- to medium-bodied, good acidity, dry finish, very dry in fact, savoury and slightly herbal. Gentle sucrosité to the fruit, not terribly intense, quite short, but at least authentic and true to the region and producer. Basic stuff, but enough interest to make it worthwhile.


Château des Tours

Very pale colour. Pure English strawberry and sage. Medium- to full-bodied, vibrant pinpoint acidity. Very herbal in style: rosemary, thyme. Dry finish, herbal and resinous, very savoury, not long. Very drinkable, with a slight mineral seam.


Le Vieux Donjon

Lovely harmonious nose, detailed berry fruits and an underlying dry herbal element. Medium to full body, bright acidity and agreeably dense, but finely fibrous tannins. Mineral edge brings balance and length. Very well balanced, almost unassuming in a way, but deeply authentic, savoury and - crucially - a highly drinkable style of Chateauneuf that will age with interest.