Cold Rush
It was a crude but effective way of making a wine buying decision: Old World vs. New World. You had savoury, medium-bodied classic styles from Europe on the one hand; fruity, powerful, full-bodied styles from Not Europe on the other. But the growing trend towards ‘cool climate’ throughout the New World is producing some stunning wines that would wrong-foot even the most dedicated Francophile. The stylistic division between Old and New is no longer valid: the faultline has shifted.
How cool?
Whether you’re at a Chilean, Argentinean or Australian tasting, the phrase ‘cool climate wines’ is popping up with increasing regularity. I asked Andrew Murphy, Director of Production for Yalumba, Australia, if it might be a global phenomenon: “Certainly in the ‘New World’”.
Michael Hill Smith MW of Tolpuddle Vineyard in Tasmania points out however that it has no precise definition. What winemakers really mean is ‘a cooler climate compared to the local average’. This usually means either going further from the equator, higher up or closer to the sea. He adds “it’s not the climate per se; it’s about the style it produces.”
Cooler climates offer longer, slower ripening periods which can lead to more subtle aromatics and fresher wines. Brown Brothers Head Winemaker Wendy Cameron sums up the style as: “lighter, fresher, crisper (higher acid), lower alcohol and more refreshing.” A greater climatic range is also allowing winemakers a broader palette of grape varieties to choose from.
A fair wind
This trend is proving popular with consumers, producers and press alike. Louisa Rose, Head of Winemaking at Yalumba sums up the principal producer reasons succinctly: “plain curiosity, an expanding industry looking for more diversity and of course in the back of some people’s mind is climate change.” For Sebastian De Martino of De Martino Wines in Chile, cool climate “is an option we have, so we have to explore it” which has helped him produce “gastronomic wines, with freshness and acidity. Length, rather than opulence.”
Speaking of the full-throttle style of some South African compatriots, Peter-Alan Finlayson, Winemaker at Crystallum, says “they’re trying to express power... I don’t really believe in that.” No doubt his winemaking experience in Burgundy played some part in this. The hand of the Old World is also felt more directly from winemakers such as Martin Prieur of Domaine Jacques Prieur, Burgundy, who consults to Cono Sur.
Casas del Bosque set up in Casablanca, Chile, in 1993, and produced their first vintage in 1998. Winery Director Christian Blanco says “people are looking for a more elegant style, more food friendly wines, something that’s not going to kill your palate”. For Cameron at Brown Brothers the growth in cool climate styles is in response to “consumer demand to move away from the more oaky bigger wines to more restrained styles.”
Arturo Larraín, General Manager of Matetic in Chile, suggests the demand for cool climate wines is led by the press. It may also be a reaction against the powerful, full-bodied wines favoured by some US commentators in the 1990s and 2000s; the current fashion is moving in the opposite direction.
Blanco of Casas del Bosque points out however that demand for fresher styles is not universal, but centred on Western Europe. Eastern Europe still demands “the style we were doing ten years ago, strong wines”. Marcelo Papa, Chief Winemaker at Concha y Toro in Chile adds that although they now source all their fruit from coastal regions for their Casillero del Diablo range, most demand in the US is for more traditional “bold, round wines”.
Global cooling
The push towards cooler climates in the New World is not new or sudden. It has been quietly building over the last two decades, arguably even longer in Australia. The US was way ahead of the game, with plantings in Oregon dating back to 1847. And there is still plenty of demand for the powerful style of wines that the New World has traditionally been associated with, and they certainly have their place.
It’s not surprising that New World winemakers have taken longer to turn their attention to more peripheral vine growing areas. A cooler climate means lower yields and a higher risk of disease. And for many New World countries these regions produce atypical styles that their customers may not be looking for. It requires serious investment to plant a new vineyard and it takes years before its true potential can be realised. The pioneers who first planted them have shown considerable courage, and now reap the benefits of being ahead of the curve.
Cooler climate styles are adding to the range and depth of what drinkers have to choose from. This is particularly welcome when it comes to matching food and wine, when medium-bodied, restrained styles are far more versatile. There’s only one thing that goes with a 15.5% Cabernet Sauvignon, and there’s only so many steaks one person can eat. Cathy Corison of Corison Winery in Napa, California, has always made the more subtle style that is becoming increasingly popular with neighbouring producers: “The exciting thing for me is the increased diversity evolving in California. California is a very big place with nearly infinite microclimates. As vintners start to mine all the nooks and crannies we will see more varietals and styles represented, making the range of wines available from the state truly broad and interesting. We all have different moods and eat different foods so the consumer will win.”
The last big trend to rise to the surface, albeit centred on the Old World, was ‘natural wine’. ‘Cool climate’ is another term that lacks a precise definition, but is likely to make more immediate sense to the average drinker. Natural wines have so far remained relatively niche: it’s certainly hard to find one in a supermarket. ‘Cool climate’ deserves to fare better and gain mainstream attention.
Most Old World countries have enough variety of landscape and climate to create both cool and warm climate styles and are respected for both: Châteauneuf and Chablis for example. It’s a little way off yet, but soon New World countries might be seen the same way: Barossa and Tasmania, Stellenbosch and Walker Bay, Maipo and San Antonio. The balance is tipping: soon it will no longer make sense to talk of an Old World vs. New World stylistic division. It’s time to start thinking cool climate vs. warm climate instead.
Cool climate regions to watch
Argentina
Altitude is the key: Lujan de Cuyo (vineyards climbing to 1,100m), Uco Valley including Tupungato (to 1,300m), and Salta (up to 3,100m) for example. Terrazas de los Andes, Bodega Colomé and Achával Ferrer are names to check.
Australia
Though Adelaide Hills, Eden Valley, Mornington Peninsula and (to a point) Margaret River are relatively cool, the most exciting region for cool climate wines is Tasmania. Try Jansz, Stoney Rise and Tolpuddle Vineyard.
Chile
Most of the cool climate regions of Chile such as Casablanca, San Antonio and Limarí are found next to the coast of the icy Pacific. Others can be found inland but far south, such as Itata, Bio-Bio and Malleco Valley. Producers to look out for are Viña Leyda, De Martino, Tabalí, Casa Marin, and Matetic.
South Africa
The most exciting regions are coastal (Walker Bay, Elgin, Elim, Constantia) but parts of Swartland for example, can also produce cool climate wines thanks to cooling coastal breezes. Try Cederberg (including Ghost Corner), Mullineux, Crystallum, and Bouchard Finlayson.
United States
Oregon and New York State have long been known for their cool climate styles, but increasingly California is finding a new cooler direction – particularly in Sonoma. Jamie Kutsh, Littorai and Anthill Farms are all recommended.
First published on www.timatkin.com.
Wine Buying Options Part 2: Supplementary channels
Yesterday we looked at the three primary channels for commercial wine buying in the UK: wholesalers, agents and buying direct from producer. In this follow-up article we look at the additional supplementary channels that can help you build the strongest range possible.
For those looking to buy wine for resale in the UK, it’s a rare business that doesn’t work with at least one of the following: wholesalers, agents or direct from producer. Choosing which of these channels to use should be clear from the type of business you operate and your market. But they are far from the only options.
Businesses keen to build an outstanding range of wines have a number of other channels to consider. These can help you produce a strongly differentiated and desirable range – but they also bring added complexity, requiring extra effort, time, risk and associated costs. Exploiting these channels, however, can turn a good range into an exceptional one.
Increasing your proximity to the source of production can be beneficial in terms of negotiating best prices, uncovering exclusive wines and developing a unique range. But thanks to the propensity of some wines to develop over time, buying from those who mature or collect wine can also prove fruitful.
Auctions
Buying at auction is often the cheapest way to pick up fully mature wines, and not just top end classics. They can also be a source of interesting mid-range wines such as aged Cru Bourgeois or mature wines from New World estates. For Kate Goodman, owner of Manchester independent merchant Reserve Wines, buying from auction is about “being able to offer something interesting”. But it’s easy to get carried away on the day: “have a price and don’t go over” she adds.
Fine wine broker Bordeaux Index occasionally sources stock from auction, but buyer Gareth Birchley warns “you’ve got to be very careful about provenance”. Although sometimes the owner of the cellar is identified in the brochure, this isn’t usually the case and it’s not always possible to inspect stock before you buy.
For Tuggy Meyer, owner of London independent merchant The Huntsworth Wine Company, the disadvantages and risks outweigh the benefits. They are time consuming to prepare for and attend; auction houses are rarely happy to replace out of condition stock; they are awkward to budget for; and often “you just can’t guarantee where [the stock] has been.”
Private sellers
Similar to buying from auction, this option can also be a source of unusual and mature wines, but provenance can be an issue. As can storage conditions – though some individuals will be happy for you to inspect their cellars.
Although neither auctions nor private sellers offer credit terms, if Goodman is satisfied with the quality, she sometimes offers the wines on email, selling them to clients before paying and collecting from the private seller.
Buying from private sellers can also be difficult to plan for. They often crop up out of the blue; you can’t rely on being able to source stock this way as and when you need it. But for Birchley from Bordeaux Index, at least with private sellers “it’s easier to construct a deal… and [the seller] may want to respend it with us.”
Place de Bordeaux
If you want to buy Bordeaux en primeur, you’ll need to get in touch directly with a Bordeaux negociant. Don’t expect immediate allocations of the top wines however, except perhaps in lesser vintages.
Birchley suggests you choose carefully: due to the two year time lag between payment and delivery of stock “if the negociant goes bust, you lose your money”. David Round MW, Purchasing Director of London independent merchant Jascots suggests you “do credit checks on negociants… some are financially weak.”
They are also a good source of bottled stock and drinking vintages. Thanks to the proliferation of petits châteaux in Bordeaux, negociants are a good source of relatively inexpensive labels not widely available in the UK. They should also be happy to help you find parcels to fit precise specifications. Most also stock Crus Classés, but compared to the secondary market in the UK they are rarely the cheapest option. Shipping is your responsibility, but it’s a relatively straightforward process since they are usually accustomed to dealing with UK clients.
Overseas merchants
Though a common source of stock for fine wine brokers, sourcing wine from overseas merchants is a less commonly exploited channel elsewhere. It shares the shipping-related detractions of buying direct from source: the extra time, effort and paperwork involved, potential language barriers, delays and currency fluctuations. Birchley from Bordeaux Index says aside from this “it’s not difficult at all… but the things you have to be careful of are reputation and trust” and avoiding “sharks”.
Despite the potential pitfalls it can be the source of good quantities of unusual, rare and mature wines, and possibly otherwise unavailable in the UK. Additionally, there can be a strong disparity in prices between the seller’s market and the UK market; this, coupled with exclusivity, can be a recipe for very healthy margins.
Fine wine brokers/traders
Brokers can be a convenient source of unusual, rare and mature wines without investing the time and effort of buying from a multiplicity of channels yourself. But you’ll need to be confident that they are as diligent about provenance and storage conditions as you are. Round advises “deal with those that have a really good reputation – be selective”. It’s also worth confirming the stock you’ve ordered lies in the UK if you have any kind of time constraints.
Round contacts brokers “if we’re looking for small parcels of top Bordeaux”. He praises “the convenience of buying from UK stock and being able to take small parcels. There’s also frequently a price advantage of top Bordeaux in the fairly liquid London market; prices can be very good compared to what’s available from a Bordeaux negociant.”
The downside for him is the “lack of margin available when reselling, because it’s a very liquid but very competitive market… there’s high visibility of prices so we have to be very careful with the price we offer to the customer”.
Long term strategy vs. tactical buying
The complexity of wine production, ageing ability and its range of prices has led to a convolution of channels: above are just some of the supplementary options available. You can add to this list buying unwanted stock from Oxbridge universities, from older established European hotels and restaurants, charity auctions like the Hospices de Beaune… and so on.
The increased complexity of opening and managing some of these channels and the resulting higher transaction costs means they aren’t relevant to all businesses – just those who want to create a truly exceptional range of wines.
For those who do want to develop their supply chain above and beyond wholesalers, agents and buying direct from producer, the mix that you choose also depends on your buying strategy and your available finances. These three primary sources offer a degree of stability and consistency that are invaluable when it comes to long-term planning. Buying direct can also give you flexibility to gear the product and packaging towards your customers.
Most supplementary options are harder to plan for, particularly auctions and private sellers. As such, they are better suited to short term tactical buying to top up and add interest to a core range. Goodman at Reserve Wines points out the wholesale and retail arms of her business have different needs, which is why she uses a diversity of sources: “It’s always a balance for me… buying the bigger amounts and those little parcels of stock that we all get dead excited about.”
Pros and cons
Auctions
+ A source of unusual and sometimes exclusive lines
+ A source of mature wines
+ There are bargains to be had
- Storage and provenance is not always certifiable
- Time consuming to prepare for and attend
- Hard to plan for financially
Private Sellers
+ A source of unusual, exclusive, and mature lines
+ Can be easy to negotiate a good price
+ Sometimes possible to inspect storage conditions
- Storage and provenance not always provable
- Hard to plan for: they tend to crop up unexpectedly
- No credit terms
Place de Bordeaux
+ The source of en primeur Bordeaux
+ A source of petits châteaux that are not widely available
+ Help in sourcing specific parcels
- Not always the cheapest option for top wines
- Danger of losing en primeur purchases if negociant goes bust
- Your responsibility to organise shipping
European merchants
+ A source of unusual and exclusive lines
+ A source of mature wines
+ Margins can be very healthy
- Be sure of who you are dealing with
- Storage and provenance not always clear
- Your responsibility to organise shipping
Fine Wine Brokers
+ Huge breadth of available lines
+ Easy and convenient to buy from
+ Relatively easy to plan for
- Storage and provenance not always clear
- Consumers can often buy at the same price as trade
- Possible delays if stock not in UK
Case study: Naked Wines
Norwich-based internet wine retailer Naked Wines are one of the few wine companies to have embraced the unique opportunities created by the internet. Naked employs a technique known as crowdsourcing: customers pool resources to help set up winemakers in business in return for preferential rates. Eamon Fitzgerald is COO; when it comes to buying: “We always go direct. We don’t work with agents, wholesalers or middlemen… We’ve got three sources: [winemakers] come to us; we actively go out and chase top talent; and we send our customers to wine fairs and get them to do the buying for us.”
Customers are actively encouraged to engage with each other and winemakers via their online social network and offline tastings, and their views are highly valued. Particularly the opinions of the ‘archangels’ – “highly engaged super-users” but nonetheless “normal drinkers”. Naked effectively outsources much of their buying to these top customers, who enjoy free buying trips. They are respected within the broader customer community, which follows their recommendations. “It’s proof this social media business really works… one day it’s what all companies could be doing”.
Originally published in Harpers Wine & Spirit, but this is a longer version.
Wine Buying Options Part 1: Wholesalers, Agents, Direct to Producer
Here's a recent article I wrote for wrote for trade magazine Harpers Wine & Spirit on commercial wine buying.
When it comes to developing your wine range, there are many different sourcing channels to consider. It’s important to understand the pros and cons of each before choosing the right mix for your business. In the first of this two-part investigation, I take a look at wholesalers, agents and buying direct.
Choosing what to stock and who to buy from will be a deciding factor when it comes to the success or otherwise of your business. If you want to develop and improve your wine range, moving closer to the source is one way of accessing higher quality, better prices and a unique range. Most buyers will look to using one, two or all three of the following channels: wholesalers, UK agents, or direct to producer. Each has potential advantages and drawbacks.
Buying from wholesalers
When it comes to simplicity, cash & carry is hard to beat. Once registered, just jump in the car and load up. Ranges differ of course, but you can at least expect to see recognisable brands at keen prices. You’ll have to hit a minimum order and pay cash: don’t expect credit. It takes little expertise to use a cash & carry, but you’ll be buying blind if you aren’t familiar with the wines. And you’ll be lucky to find staff to advise you. It is the easy but no-frills option.
Larger wholesalers offer wider ranges, delivery and credit terms. Some, such as Amathus and LWC, offer thousands of different lines, which is enough for some businesses to conveniently stock their entire BWS range. Buying solely from a wholesaler, however, is unlikely to give you a strongly differentiated offering. But if a low cost of transaction is of greater importance, the efficiency savings can make them the right option.
Mike Grantham, owner of Grantham’s Fine Food & Wine, a family-run grocer in Cheshire used them for many years. “We used to pick up wine from wholesalers and cash & carries. But while they’re quite competitive, you can find the wines virtually anywhere. So over the last few years we’ve relied less and less on them, and more and more on agents.”
Working with agents
Going direct to agents should take you closer to the producer, cutting out any other middlemen thus ensuring good prices but avoiding the additional work required when going direct. For Grantham it was a natural progression; buying from a wholesaler “wasn’t very stimulating… whereas with an agent, I get excited… there’s always a story behind the wines. It’s evolved over the last eight years; you start to build up your reputation. Now we’ve got bottles on the shelf for £100 from iconic Italian producers.”
It tends to be a producer with confidence in their product who is willing to invest in a market by employing an agent; as such, they are often the source of quality wines. Agents usually offer the same practical benefits as wholesalers such as regular small deliveries at short notice, consistent availability and credit terms, but usually offer a range of other services.
Oddbins Buyer Ana Sapungiu confirms you can “expert more support in selling the wine.” This support includes samples, staff training, funding promotions and help with events. They are also keen to create consumer demand for their wines through PR and marketing.
David Round MW, Purchasing Director of London independent merchant Jascots points out that working with agencies can be an efficient way of sourcing wines: “they’ve done the work in terms of finding the best wines they can: research, travelling, they’ve invested the time… they can also have a role in smoothing over any potential problems.”
Although less ubiquitous than many famous brands, wines sourced through agents will be available elsewhere in the market. For businesses who don’t want to stock wines found in multiple distribution, this can cause problems if agents are vague or inconsistent in their distribution policy. Kate Goodman of Manchester independent merchant Reserve Wines admits “the biggest problem is the lack of transparency of channels” though of late “there has been an improvement”. Sapungiu from Oddbins advises “be clear what sort of channels the wine is going to be in… and what their plans are for that product in the future.”
Going direct to producer
For businesses that can commit to larger quantities, buying direct can be a rewarding if challenging option. By cutting out all middlemen you should be getting the very best price. Round of Jascots underlines another benefit: “a direct relationship with the producer – therefore more control”. Sapungiu agrees buying direct can mean “more of a say in the style of the wine and the packaging”.
Direct communication with the producer gives you the best chance of getting accurate information. Language barriers can create problems however. Round confirms that when working direct with a producer “communication is the key. Make sure they understand your exact requirements. Labelling, continuity of stock… assume nothing.”
For Goodman at Reserve Wines, although “agencies are the staple”, being able to source exclusive wines by going direct is a major plus: “we’re able to offer wines which aren’t widely seen… it’s that side we’re excited about”.
Exclusivity not only means you can offer something unique, but you also have more flexibility with margins. Goodman says she “can offer more competitive prices for our wholesale clients… We can offer our clients a wine that we think is good value and we’re all still making good margins on it… Everyone can win, the producer’s happy, we’re happy and the person that’s getting the good quality wine at the end is happy with his margin as well.”
Some businesses buy exclusively direct from source. For Tony Stones, Managing Director of Champagne Warehouse in Leeds “exclusivity is very important to us”. He visits Champagne at least once a month for two days or more: “it does take time and effort but it does pay off.”
Certain producers whose wines are in strong demand only sell direct – and on allocation. Kent private client company A&B Vintners secure theirs by taking a long-term view and trusting their instinct regarding young or unestablished producers. Buyer Simon Davies explains “They weren’t always household names... We invest in people and believe they’ll become future stars. But things are always changing, there’s always someone new to find.”
Goodman admits there are downsides: longer lead times, delays, more paperwork and problems caused by currency fluctuations: “a good way of protecting yourself is buying currency in advance to protect your margins.” There is also the additional time and expense involved with research, shipping and warehousing. Overall, “it’s a bit more complicated… you have to be more organised”.
Getting the right mix
Sourcing wine can be more complex than beer or spirits: fragmented production, huge proliferation of global producers from the very small to the very large, variety of styles, range of prices and differing local alcohol legislation. That some of it benefits from age adds another dimension. It has led to a multiplicity of available channels. For Sapungiu this is a positive: “we are spoilt for choice… all you need to do is find a way of engaging with customers.” And an extensive choice of suppliers means scope for leveraging volume and assertive buying practices.
Choosing the best wine sourcing channels for your business derives from understanding your market. If all your customers want are recognisable brands at reasonable prices the extra transaction costs involved in working with multiple agents or going direct are best avoided. The fewer suppliers you can get away with and the more automated the process can be, the better.
Conversely, if you have the scope to sell fine and rare wines, you’d be mad to ignore the opportunity, even if it means taking the time and effort required in developing your supply chain. But with a greater number and variety of sources comes increased complexity of operation and associated expense and time commitments. And there are more channels to consider than just these three.
In Part 2 tomorrow, we explore five further sources for buying wine: supplementary channels for wine specialists who want the strongest ranges possible.
Pros and cons
Wholesale
+ Ease of use, especially cash & carry
+ Little wine knowledge or expertise required
+ Recognisable, popular brands
- Ubiquity of many products
- Rarely the most exciting wines
- Credit terms not always available
Agents
+ Support with samples, training, events, POS, etc.
+ Regular small drops and credit terms – good for cash flow
+ Can be a source of quality wines, sometimes with exclusivity
- Some agents lack clarity in their distribution strategy
- Limited margin expectations due to market price comparison
- Rarely a source of exclusive wines
Direct
+ Access to exclusive wines
+ Direct relationship and communication with producer
+ Best prices
+ Control over product and packaging
- Commitment to larger stock positions
- Time-consuming research required
- Increased paperwork
- Language barriers
- Wines rarely have a track record in the market
- Longer lead times
- Currency fluctuations
Buying groups: strength in numbers
For businesses that can’t always commit to the quantities required when going direct, one option is a buying group. They give members access to better prices through greater buying power and access to wines that are not widely available. Kate Goodman, owner of Reserve Wines, is a member of Vindependents, a growing UK-wide group set up in 2010 consisting of 10 independents. She says there are other less obvious benefits: “We share information from credit card charges to where you get your plastic bags, what tasting events have worked well... It’s not just about buying, it’s about information sharing.”
Using wine brokers
The broker or courtier doesn’t sell wine or hold stock, but acts as a low-key matchmaker between producer and buyer. Specialising in a single region, they develop and sustain up-to-date knowledge of a large variety of producers. Charles & Philippa Sydney fulfil this role in the Loire and make it their business “to know what’s going on in the cellars”. Although they are effectively middlemen, Sydney says this doesn’t mean higher prices: “given our relationships with the major actors on the UK and other markets and the level of security offered, growers are happy for us to offer prices that are the same (or lower) than those they offer en direct.”
First published in Harpers Wine & Spirit (but this is a longer version).
Cornas: the sweet smell of success
Of all the red wines of the Rhône Valley, there is one that has an unfortunate reputation. Cornas has often been accused of having a rustic or ‘animal’ side to its character; rough round the edges with gamey aromas. But the new generation of winemakers is proving this needn’t be the case. Cornas is now snapping at the heels of Hermitage and Côte-Rôtie as a top site for Syrah in the Rhône. The only creature that comes to mind these days when tasting the finest Cornas is the Ugly Duckling.
Cornas lies on the west bank of the Northern Rhône, directly south of the long strip of vineyards that make up St Joseph, like the dot of an extended exclamation mark. It amounts to just 128 hectares of vines – so a little bit smaller than Hermitage (136ha). Like much of the greatest terroir of the Rhône, the best vineyards teeter on scorched south- or southeast-facing terraces of solid granite. Australian winemaker Mark Haisma makes a Cornas from grapes bought from a local grower; he holds the local vignerons in high esteem “they work really hard… it’s pretty brutal.”
Most of the slopes are too steep or too narrow for tractors. Parts are too steep for horses, so they use ploughs attached to winches to work the soil. No wonder so many vineyards were abandoned during the early part of the 20th century. It was only in the second half of the last century that a handful of winemakers took it upon themselves to rebuild the appellation to its former glory. It was as late as the 1950s that any domaines even bottled their own wines.
No single producer owns much land. The biggest is Domaine du Coulet with 10ha, then Domaine Clape with 5.5ha. It is home to around fifty growers, five times as many as Hermitage. Historically, many of these tiny growers have produced wines as a secondary means of income or a hobby, so largely without formal training. Only the minority of producers make enough to justify investing in modern machinery – or scrupulous hygiene. This is the root cause of Cornas’s rustic reputation – old-fashioned winemaking that has only been addressed relatively recently. Not the terroir.
Maxime Graillot, winemaker at Domaine Alain Graillot, makes a powerful, clean and fruit-forward Cornas under his Equis label, and for him “the new generation are changing the style.” Professional training and winemaking stages in other countries have led to a big jump in quality. Up-and-coming winegrower Vincent Paris is part of this new generation; though still in his early 30s, he is already co-president of the Cornas appellation. He recites a number of ways in which they have improved the wines: better vineyard management, improved temperature control, precision analysis in the cellar, controlled use of new oak, less sulphur, and – perhaps most importantly – replacing old oak barrels.
Alberic Mazoyer of stalwart Domaine Alain Voge admits that in the past some wines from Cornas had a problem with high levels of brettanomyces (or ‘brett’), a common strain of yeast that can lead to off-flavours, often described as stinky, animal, horsey or farmyardy. “It’s not goût de terroir… it’s a problem of cleanliness” he says, and that the older the barrels, the higher the risk of unpalatable levels of brett. Sandrine Robert of modern Cornas producer Domaine du Tunnel agrees “it’s nothing to do with terroir… it’s the older generation who weren’t changing their barrels regularly.”
Certain people are more sensitive to brett than others, and some believe small amounts can add complexity to a wine. “A little touch can be intriguing… it gives a lift, an interest” says Haisma – but too much can be unpleasant: “I call it the pox”. He points out that Syrah is particularly susceptible to brett as it often has a relatively high pH. Other winemaking practices that have previously caused rough edges and rusticity have been phased out by the majority of producers: no more chestnut barrels, use of green stems or rough working of the cap.
These changes have been gradually taking place for some time, but since Cornas is such a small and fragmented appellation, it has taken a while for the wider world to become aware. Mazoyer points out that only in the last 10 years have the big négociant houses of Chapoutier and Jaboulet owned vineyards in Cornas. These larger businesses have the marketing clout to make the wider world take notice - “the reputation has changed because of them” he says.
Not every domaine has changed their winemaking. Auguste Clape was the first to bottle Cornas – as late as 1955. Although the winemaking is now in the hands of his grandson Olivier, little has changed. The wines are still fermented in unlined raw cement tanks “the same stuff they use to make gravestones” Olivier says. Whereas many producers are moving away from using 100% stems Clape still does not destem at all; he keeps fermentations short with a quick punching down by foot twice a day. He admits their wines are “more old style” but he believes this very basic handling, with no destemming or new oak helps display “the real terroir”. The wines have a rugged, burly swagger, but this is a character many enjoy, and look for in Cornas. It would certainly be a shame to lose this style completely. His 2010 is a force of nature.
Others look for different expressions of the terroir: Haisma finds “minerality, and sweet opulence of Syrah fruit”. Vincent Paris retains the savoury edge and traditional heft of Cornas, but without any farmyard overtones. The wines of Domaine du Tunnel display the characteristic power but backed up with ripe, fleshy, vibrant fruitiness. This burgeoning multiplicity of styles will only grow as more vineyards are planted. According to Paris, the area under vine is increasing by around 3ha every year, and it has the potential to increase in size to 200–250ha, so a little smaller than Côte-Rôtie (275ha). Much of the land left to plant is at the top of the slopes, which bodes well for future quality. Cornas has much more to give. And while it still lacks the cachet of the other big names of the Rhône, the wines remain comparatively good value.
Like the Ugly Duckling, it has taken some time for the excellence of Cornas to be recognised. Due to its innate power and burliness, it might never turn into a graceful swan – it is a robust style of Syrah that won’t please everybody. In the words of Olivier Clape “if you want to understand Cornas, you need to taste other wines before. It’s not completely round and charming.” Finesse is not its calling card; its character asserts itself in other ways. Many agree that the best reds of Côte-Rôtie are now regularly comparable with those of Hermitage. The next to join them will be Cornas.
Some excellent Cornas domaines
Thierry Allemand
Mickaël Bourg
Clape
du Coulet
Courbis
Eric et Joël Durand
Guillaume Gilles
Marcel Juge
Johann Michel
Vincent Paris
du Tunnel
Alain Voge
No place like Beaune
A brief introduction to the wines of Beaune...
If you’re new to Burgundy, the handsome city of Beaune is the perfect base from which to explore. This ancient citadel sits proudly at the centre of the region, in the foremost quality zone known as the Côte d’Or. It is surrounded by a sea of vines, spreading out like green ripples along the hillsides, radiating from its stone ramparts.
There are no Grand Cru vineyards in Beaune. Its Pinot Noirs lack the baroque drama of the reds to the north and its Chardonnays rarely hit the opulent heights of the whites to the south. But the carefully groomed vineyards that surround the city are the source of its historic wealth: its polished reds and fine whites remain as self-assured today as they have been since Roman times.
The wines of Beaune are unshowy but refined. Like a well-loved, ageing Jaguar, they are quietly luxurious, they purr softly. They may not turn heads like deluxe models, but the quality is undeniable.
The Pinot Noirs in particular are soft, brightly fruity and elegant. They start life tasting of wild strawberries and raspberries, gradually taking on flavours of beetroot, mushroom and autumn leaves as they age. They don’t last as long as some red Burgundies; but you don’t have to wait as long for them to mature. Both the reds and whites are medium-bodied, food friendly, the best displaying a supreme textural finesse.
In Burgundy, the finest quality wines are usually produced by small growers. For top quality Beaune, try Domaine de Bellene, Domaine Tollot-Beaut and Domaine Rossignol-Trapet. But here, most of the Premier Cru vineyards are owned by the big wine merchants based in the city. Four names to look out for are Bouchard Aîné & Fils, Chanson Père & Fils, Joseph Drouhin, and Louis Jadot.
Due to the huge breadth of different wines they produce, their ranges are bound to have the odd weak link, but broadly speaking their output is reliable. In fact they are responsible for Beaune’s very best bottlings, such as Drouhin’s Premier Cru ‘Clos des Mouches’ Rouge, Chanson’s Premier Cru ‘Clos des Mouches’ Blanc, Bouchard’s Premier Cru ‘Le Vigne de l’Enfant Jésus’ Rouge and Jadot’s Premier Cru ‘Clos des Ursules’ Rouge. In good vintages such as 2002, 2005 and 2009, they demonstrate why Beaune remains the spiritual home of Burgundy.
First published in Living France magazine.
Castillon: cast iron bargains
A brief introduction to the wines of Castillon...
In terms of both reputation and prices Bordeaux stands victorious among the wine regions of France. It is hardly surprising that its neighbours have tried to emulate its success. Although the Cabernet Sauvignon-dominated Left Bank is largely hemmed in by river and forest, the vineyards of the Merlot-dominated Right Bank have fewer natural barriers. The echo of St Emilion can be heard dozens of miles from the town itself.
The further the vineyards spread inland along the River Dordogne, away from St Emilion, the less the Bordeaux influence is felt. But the quality can still be high. The grape varieties remain broadly the same: mostly Merlot, Cabernet Franc and often some Cabernet Sauvignon. But the terrain becomes wilder, the climate slightly cooler. The country gentleman vibe gives way to a more paysan feel. Accordingly the wines become more rustic, the appellations less familiar – and the value for money far greater.
One good location to look for Bordeaux style but without the price tag is on the easternmost edge of the official Bordeaux appellation. The rolling hills and wooded valleys of Castillon, site of the last battle of the Hundred Years War, is a good hunting ground. The raw materials aren’t hammered out with the same precision as a top St Emilion, but the best still have juicy plum and blackberry fruits and a keen savoury edge. They don’t last as long, but they’re ready to drink sooner. Stick to warmer vintages if you can, such as 2005, 2009 and 2010.
Castillon’s winemaking potential was noted by its wealthy neighbours long ago. Nowadays, some of the best wines are made by estates annexed by the bigger players of St Emilion. Château d’Aiguilhe (owned by Château Canon La Gaffelière), Clos Puy Arnaud (Château Troplong-Mondot), and Domaine de l’Aurage (Château Tertre-Roteboeuf) to name but a few. For those on a budget, check out the wines of the gothic Château de Pitray, whose wines are still available for less than a tenner in the UK.
As you travel further east, out of Bordeaux into the Dordogne region, prices remain low but this style of wine continues. Bergerac is making better and better wine all the time, particularly Château Tour des Gendres. Keep going, and eventually you’ll reach little-known Pécharmant. Château les Farcies du Pech' is particularly worth tracking down – again, under a tenner, but punches well above its weight.
First published in Living France magazine.
No grannies allowed: proper sherry
Here's a link to an article I wrote on the rise of proper sherry for Imbibe magazine: http://imbibe.com/feature/no-grannies-allowed/16718
Wedding wines - bling vs. bargain
When planning the wines for your wedding, sometimes it pays to look beyond the big names if you want maximum bang for your buck. Here are some reliable producers of classic styles and alongside some under-the-radar alternatives that offer outstanding value for money.
Serious fizz
When it comes to sparkling wine, Champagne still reigns supreme, particularly class acts such as Louis Roederer Brut Premier (Hennings, £31.95). But you can find that rich, toasty flavour for less by looking at Cava, Crémant de Loire or New World sparklers such as Jansz Premium Cuvée (Slurp.co.uk, £13.95) from Australia. Grown on the cooler island of Tasmania, they use the same grapes (Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier) and the same method as Champagne to create a delicious fizz with delicate bubbles and genuine finesse.
Refreshing bubbles
If the soft, blossomy, apple and pear flavours of Prosecco are more your thing, go for the wedding-quality Follador Prosecco Superiore Extra Dry 2011 (Oddbins, £14.00). For those on a budget, check out the Philippe Michel Crémant du Jura 2011 (Aldi, £6.99). This is a good quality sparkling wine from the Jura region in the east of France near Switzerland. It’s made of 100% Chardonnay, but don’t expect any heaviness or oak – this has dry, refreshing red apple flavours. Lindauer Brut Cuvée (Morrisons, £9.99) from New Zealand is another good option.
Rich velvety reds
For a classic red for your wedding breakfast, what could be more traditional than a fine Claret? Claret is another name for red Bordeaux, a region where value is often elusive. But the luxurious Château Teyssier 2006 (Roberson, £16.95, £14.41 for 12) is well worth the money, with layer upon layer of mellow dark fruits. If you’re open to more unusual regions, try the Minarete Ribera del Duero 2011 (Aldi, £5.49) from western Spain. It has bags of seductive blackberry and spice from Tempranillo grapes and is worth twice the price. Both would work well with roast beef or lamb.
Bright juicy reds
Lighter reds work better with chicken, pork or cold meats; a good Pinot Noir would be an ideal match. The best come from Burgundy, but they are rarely cheap; Domaine Nicolas Rossignol Bourgogne Pinot Noir 2011 (Lea & Sandeman, £15.50, or £13.95 for 12 bottles) offers great quality and value. Chile has huge plantings of this grape, and as such the price tag is usually lower, even if they don’t always have the same complex character. Cono Sur La Bicicleta Pinot Noir 2011 (Slurp.co.uk, £7.70) is a crowd-pleasing red with strawberry, raspberry and slightly spicy aromas at half the price.
Food-friendly whites
I don’t know anyone who doesn’t like a good Chablis. If you’re looking for a rich, rounded but dry white wine that works well with chicken and fish dishes, it would certainly be a reliable, classic choice. William Fevre is a benchmark producer, and their Chablis 2011 (The Wine Society, £13.95,) would be a great option. False Bay Chenin Blanc 2011 (Hennings, £6.99) from South Africa however is a food-friendly, intensely flavoursome white with bright citrussy flavour and offers good value for money. The whites of the Rhône Valley and southern Italy are worth exploring for richer whites too.
Fresh aromatic whites
If you’re a fan of zesty New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, you’ll know it can work well both on its own and with fish dishes. Greywacke is an exceptional producer, and their Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2012 (Nickolls & Perks, £16.00, £14.40 if you buy 12) won’t fail to impress. If you haven’t yet discovered Portuguese Vinho Verde, now is the time. The Quinta de Azevedo 2012 (Oddbins, £7.25) is a classic example with satisfying citrus and stone-fruit flavour and a refreshing light effervescence. Do try the modern dry style of German Riesling too, which can be a revelation.
Ravishing rosés
Our love-affair with rosé shows no sign of diminishing, and the Château d’Esclans Whispering Angel 2012 (fromvineyardsdirect.com, £13.95,) from Provence tastes just as good as it looks. The Chateau Bauduc Rosé 2011 (Bauduc.com, £8.95, or £7.97 when you quote Brides Magazine) from Bordeaux is also very fine. Delicious on its own or with light meals – you’ll find it at Restaurant Gordon Ramsay and Rick Stein’s Seafood Restaurant in fact. If you’re eating spicy food, Pink Elephant Rosé 2012 (Tesco, £7.00) from near Lisbon in Portugal has lots of bright berry fruit flavours that will keep you refreshed between mouthfuls.
First published in Brides magazine (but this is longer).
A wine lover’s guide to Granada
The Alhambra, the jewel of Andalusia, stands proudly overlooking the town of Granada. Constructed in the mid 14th century…
Now shut the guide book and show me the snacks. Call me a heathen but the thing that made an impression on me wasn’t the architecture, mind-bending though it is, but how well you can drink in this city. When it comes to growing vines, southeast Spain is a bit of a desert (literally). But Granada is an oasis for wine lovers – if you know where to go.
Take a walk down Calle Navas. It’s the street some guide books dismiss; a 250m stretch of touristy tapas bars churning out overpriced paella and burgers. But there are some hidden gems to be discovered; a stylish restaurant, a rowdy tapas joint, a smart wine shop, an extraordinary deli and a wine bar that of itself would make the trip worthwhile.
In the far corner of Plaza del Carmen, a quiet municipal square in the centre of town, you’ll see the start of the narrow street. Before you enter, on the corner to the right you’ll see the ornate windows of Puerta del Carmen – it’s one of the best restaurants in Granada, and it certainly looks the part. That’s why all the tables are reserved. But hang around and you’ll get a seat at the snaking bar. It’s worth the wait; they have a tempting wine list, mostly top-end Spanish reds and a good range of sherries by the glass. If you deserve a special bottle, and you’re in the mood for some relaxed luxury, this is the place to go.
Within a few minutes of walking down Calle Navas, you’ll see laughing, chattering groups spilling out of Los Diamantes. The plastic sign above the roller-shutter door might not bode well, but don’t miss it. Even if it’s heaving with people, squeeze yourself in. It’s a young, raucous tapas joint; a long bar with a few pieces of flimsy metal furniture sat amongst screwed-up napkins and paper plates that are strewn all over the floor. The seafood is as fresh as anywhere else in town, and the bottle of Barbadillo Solear Manzanilla behind the counter never gets put down. It just flows into the line of empty glasses, open-mouthed like baby birds, until it lands, empty, in the overflowing bin – and they pull the cork on the next one. For the remaining people out there who still don’t get sherry, this place is sure to convert you.
Refreshed, it’s time to escape the clatter and pop into La Carte des Vins over the road for a quiet browse. The name of this long, thin shop might be French, but the wines are Spanish and the English-speaking owner will be happy to guide you. It’s a concise range, but it’s expertly chosen, from traditional Riojas to oaky fruit grenades from Jumilla and Campo de Borja. Buying older bottles from shops in hot countries can be a gamble, but the Bodegas Áster Reserva 2001 from Ribera del Duero we picked up was wonderful.
When it’s time for dinner, ignore the identikit tapas restaurants with their dog-eared, laminated menus on the main strip and walk to the end of Calle Navas, until you get to La Oliva. A small delicatessen by day, its dark wooden shelves are crammed with delicious local specialities. In the evenings the owner, Francisco, makes room for a few tables and chairs, enough for ten people. He turned away a further 20 the night we were there – make sure you book. And arrive hungry.
There’s no menu. Francisco just brings you food, occasionally paired with glasses of local wines: olives, hams, cheeses; small cooked dishes of vegetables, fish, chicken, pork; a few sweet things to finish. It’s worth asking to see his kitchen: it consists of a single electric hob and a chopping board in the storeroom. It’s all he needs, as the ingredients speak for themselves. A small plate of salt cod, orange, radish and black olive needs nothing but a glug of fruity olive oil, a grind of salt and a spark of paprika and it’s ready to eat. If he gets inspired, he’ll phone a mate, jump on his bicycle, and return ten minutes later with more goodies. For us, it was some bright, fruity sorbets from his friend down the road. He describes himself as a ‘simple shopkeeper’ but he is hugely knowledgeable and a friendly, welcoming host.
Opposite La Oliva is a wine bar called La Tana. The cool, airy room is lined with stools along the walls, and behind the faded wooden bar is a solid wall of stacked bottles and a sprawling display of flowers, fruits and vegetables. Order a drink and you’ll receive a ‘tapita’ – a mini tapas that comes free with every drink, a civilised custom unique to this part of Spain. There’s no choice, you’ll just get a plate of whatever is at hand. We ordered a half bottle of the rich and toasty Bayanus Cava Reserva 2007 and a plate of tapas to share, and waited for our tapita.
Both plates arrived at the same time, and so generous is the tapita at La Tana that it was hard to tell it from the tapas. But with so many excellent wines to choose from, a firm foundation was just what was needed. We chose another bottle of Ribera, a Bodegas Aalto PS 2005 this time, and greedily piled our way through. The owner Jesús is a relaxed presence behind the bar and his wine list is extensive, covering even the smallest, most obscure regions of Spain. The prices at the bar are about the same as you would see in a shop back home, sometimes even less, so you can treat yourself without breaking the bank.
All of these gems on just one street. With only one of these places in our guidebook, it makes you wonder what else there is in Granada to discover. And, yes, eventually I did take an interest in the Alhambra. It’s the name of the local lager...
First published in www.toniquemagazine.com.
Vouvray: a class act
A brief introduction to Vouvray...
The celebrity grape of the Loire Valley is Sauvignon Blanc. She’s famous for her role in Sancerre, a classic dry white known the world over. Sauvignon is certainly talented, but her strong character can sometimes be overbearing. An even more gifted grape making whites in this part of France is Chenin Blanc. She may not be as naturally striking, but she’s immensely versatile and never hogs the limelight. She is often at her best when playing her varied role in Vouvray.
Vouvray is a small town situated on the northern bank of the Loire, just east of Tours. Winemakers only produce whites here, and just from Chenin Blanc. But they coax a prodigious array of styles from it. Wines can be anywhere on the sweetness scale, so the more considerate producers will say on the label: dry (sec), off-dry (sec tendre), medium dry (demi-sec), medium sweet (moelleux) or fully, lusciously sweet (liquoreux). They also make sparkling (mousseux) and semi-sparkling (pétillant) – these too can be dry or semi-sweet.
The secret to Chenin Blanc’s success is the sharp, acidic side of her character. The grapes retain their acidity even when very ripe, ensuring a balanced and precise performance even in sweeter roles. It is also the key to Chenin’s longevity; in good vintages, Vouvray can last for 50 years or more. When young, the wines have aromas of green apple, pear and white flowers; as they age, they become increasingly complex and honeyed, nutty and toasty. If grapes are affected by the benevolent fungus known as Noble Rot, the wines take on further distinctive scents of mushroom, marmalade and saffron.
Different styles work at different times throughout a meal: sparkling Vouvray as an aperitif; dry or off-dry versions with rich chicken, fish or pork dishes; medium dry or medium sweet styles with fruity desserts; and fully sweet examples to finish off, just for pure indulgence. Some producers specialise in a single style, but most make the whole gamut. Names to look out for are Domaine Champalou, Domaine de la Taille aux Loups, Domaine du Clos Naudin, Domaine Vigneau-Chevreux, Domaine Breton, Domaine Marc Brédif and the legendary Domaine Huet. Sancerre may have the celebrity cachet, but the multifaceted, hardworking Vouvray is where the quiet talent lies.
First published in Living France magazine.